[jhinkle]

I'm sorry to see my actions got you upset. I did not reply promptly because I had to address my PH issue and your questions were not on the path toward a solution.

I now have time and am pleased to answer:

1. You said your using RO water, but has the RO system had regular maintenance done and filters changed?

The RO system is brand new. I have it connected to a bathroom faucet and create RO as required. I use RO water for my hydroponic lettuce and tomatoes and in the making of sourdough bread.

2. Is RO water all that you use? and have ever used? As an example using mostly RO, but adding some tap water because you couldn't get enough RO water from the RO system in time.

I only use RO water. I have seen statements about mixing a percentage of tap water to help stabilize the PH but I have not taken that path. The water in the Florida Keys contains chlorimide which can not be removed from the water using the same methods to remove chlorine. Chlorimide in the water severely stunts the growth of lettuce so I remove it.

3. Have you tested the RO pH? Right from the tap without anything in it, and from the same sample of water daily for a week to look for pH swings in the water supply?

Water in the Florida comes from mainland Florida. In my case, that's 100 miles away. I contacted the water authority and asked about water quality and PH levels. The water supplied to the Keys has a PH that is maintained between 9.0 and 9.5. I have measured the PH at the tap multiple times across multiple days and it is aways above 9.0 but never above 9.5.

4. What nutrients are you using?

I am using Jack's 5-12-26 plus Calcium Nitrate.

5. Have you used any other nutrients on those plants?

In the first tank of solution (which I dumped) I also added a small amount of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt). There is no Epsom Salt in my current tank and no other chemicals except Citric Acid used as a PH Up adjuster.

6. How exactly are you mixing the nutrients? Both what you add and how much, as well as the process you go through when mixing them.

The recipe from jacks is (for 10 gallons of water) - 1.3 oz of 5-12-26 and .86 oz of Calcium Nitrate. This equates to 36.85 grams and 24.38 grams respectfully.

I draw 4 gallons of RO water into a 5 gallon bucket. I measure out (using a .01 gram scale) 14.74 grams of 5-12-26 and 9.75 grams of Calcium Nitrate.

I start a stirring action in the bucket and slowly add the measured amount of 5-12-26. I continue agitation until it is completely dissolved. I then complete the same process adding the measured amount of Calcium Nitrate.

The 4 gallons is then added to the tank. When the required amount of water is added the PH is measured and adjusted. The system is allowed to circulate for an hour or two and the the PH is measured again and adjusted if necessary.

(Note - the process above is for filling a new tank. When adding water/nutrients to an existing tank - the amount of water and nutrients is determined by water required and the current tank's EC level.

7. Did you add anything other than the nutrients to the reservoir (now or ever)? Any additives etc. etc.. (list everything that has now or ever gone into the reservoir water)

Answered in reply to question 5. short answer - NO.

8. How are you checking pH? (pH meter, pH drops, if drops what kind)

I have a Bluelab meter that measures both PH and EC. I use calibrated PH standards of 4, 7, and 10 - once or twice a week to maintain calibration. When the is a PH level that is out of line - I measure the solution's PH using PH drops. My meter has always read accurately.

9. What are you using for pH adjusters?

When I purchased the 5-12-26 and Calcium Nitrate directly from Jacks -- I also purchased the PH UP and PH DOWN. Jack's PH Down is Citric Acid.

10. What does the water in the reservoir look like (is it translucent/clear or clowdy)?

Crystal clear.

11. What does the water in the reservoir smell like? Does it smell musty or moldy?

No odor or smell present.

12. is there any foam on top of the water?

No foam -- see picture below.

13. Is there any white powder looking residue at the bottom of the reservoir?

No residue of any sort on the bottom of the tank.

1.) If your initial pH is actually that high you have HARD water, and a RO system that's not working correctly (probably clogged due to the hard water).

The water is not hard. I have lived previously with a well and am well aware of hard water. As stated earlier - Florida Water Authority maintains the tap water's PH between 9.0 and 9.5

2.) Electric meters often give false results. I'm not sure what you mean by "and PH indicator solution," but unless your using pH drops to check pH, there's a chance your readings are not correct.

My meter is calibrate at least weekly and is accurate. I have a cheap ($25) "Dr Meter" PH pen that I calibrate and use as a quick sanity check.

You call them ph drops. The label on my liquid PH test solution says "PH Test Indicator" It identifies PH between 4.0 ans 8.5.

3.) When the water supply has high pH you ALWAYS adjust pH both before and after adding the nutrients.

As stated in my post, the PH of the RO water drops over time (1 or 2 days). I suspect the change in PH is due to very little buffering being present. As posted, I ran an experiment using 4 gal of 2 day old RO water with a PH of 7.1 and another 4 gals of new created RO water with a PH of 9.0. After adding the same measured amounts of nutrients to both - the resulting EC and PH levels were exactly the same.

4.) Citrus acid (designed for hydroponics) works just fine as a pH adjuster. If you want something with more longevity (buffers), use GH dry pH adjusters. But never use anything like battery acid or Muriatic acid that is NOT designed for hydroponics. And before you say Howard Resh said to use it again, I know who Howard Resh is and his credentials. You have a problem with your water supply and method in which you adjust pH, not a problem the pH adjusters. Sticking harsh chemicals in the water won't change that.

Citric acid works fine -- I'm just not prepared to use 1/2 pound (at $10/lb) to adjust and maintain PH.

Jack's have multiple customers that have provided them feedback that their PH Down was "weak" and had to move to a strong acid to achieve and maintain the desired PH.

Why do you say never use Muriatic acid?

Because it's not commonly used?

Nothing done with hydroponics was designed for hydroponics -- unless you mean products marketed in the stores. Hydroponics is just soil-less growth media for plants combined with chemistry. Most any acid or base can be used as long as the proper safety precautions are taken and the chemistry is well understood.

I agree that most hobbyist should not use Muriatic acid. It is a very strong acid compared to Citric acid and requires a lot of safety procedures in its use.

In my case - using Florida's water - Citric Acid is not strong enough and as of today - Muriatic acid seems to be meeting the requirements.

As of today - I am able to maintain my desired PH and have not experienced the massive PH UP swings as I have in the past using Citric Acid.

Now that I'm able to maintain my desired PH window, the tomato plants seem to like it better as I have seen a drop of .1 in the EC level over the last 24 hours.

Again - your last post was very angry. Sorry if I offended you in any way.

Your help and comments are always appreciated.

Thanks





The white in the bottom of the tank is in the plastic - not sediment.