[GpsFrontier]

Thanks for the great drawings! (what program did you use?)

I use Google Sketchup, they have paid versions but I use the free version at the bottom of the link. It takes time to learn how to use it. But from what I understand it works much like the CAD (drafting program, maybe even better). The CAD programs costs thousands of dollars. I have not used the CAD program so I cant compare. But Google also has videos that help give directions/instructions on how to use it best. I am no expert with using it, but I like it a lot. I needed a way to make the imiges for the pdf. files, and free designs for the build your own system plans for my website, in order to make them look somewhat uniformed. Google Sketchup fit the bill in my price range, FREE.

It is a 3D image program that you can rotate the images, then you need to export them from the program as a jpg, in order to use them like I have posted them. Once they are exported they are 2D images and not rotatable. But I save have all the originals (in stages along the way) in original form, so I don't need to start from scratch with every image. Although, I did start from scratch when creating the ones I posted in this thread, because I hadn't created any thing with that design yet. But it's not time wasted because I have no doubt that they will come in handy later.

For the drip line: I have to see if I can find drip emmiters in here. Another option would be to use T connectors at the main line so each pot can have a punctured piece of tube that drips the water in it.

To be honest, I think drip emitters are overrated. I don't know what's available to you, but emitters will clog. I use regular irrigation tubing (like the kind that they use for soil gardening). They sell (here) pre drilled holes, and solid tubing in all sizes. I just fit it all together the way I need it to fit, then take a paper clip (heat it red hot) and poke the holes where I need them. If they clog over time I will just poke more holes, but the tubing is much cheaper (to me) than replacing emitters.

How about the pump? It seems I first have to design my system; then work out what ammount of water will be in it; and based on that (+ the distance to the pump) how much PSI it need.

I don't know how many plants you plan, or how many. But the pump will need to be sufficient. Again I don't know what's available to you, but none of the pumps that I use are rated in PSI (pounds per square inch), but gallons per hour (GPH). Also the most important rating to me is the "head height," this is how many gallons the pump can pump at a particular height above the pump. This can drop dramatically depending on the pump. I attached a picture of my favorite pump so far, the head height is 8.7 feet. I actually needed to split the line in the reservoir because it pumped too much and the system would overflow (at 2 feet), one line went to the system, the other directly back into the resevar. But I got it for $45, and it pumps 3-4 times the volume that the pumps I got at the hydroponics store for $30 do. I got it at the local hardware store in the nursery department, where the sell fountain, and pond pumps. Just make sure it either has a filter built in or you create one, it needs a filter.

Can the strength be adjusted on the pump or do I need to make a valve between my dripline and the pump to control it that way? Not sure if that could have a bad effect on the pump.

Adjusting it would depend on the pump, the one i showed you has an adjustment, but the flow still needed to be adjusted down, for the application I was using it for. But I would rather need to do that than need to buy a new one if I needed a more powerful one. And yes, you you can place inline control valves to help direct the flow, especial if they are at different levels (heights). But I have not come across (or herd of) any problems of back pressure damaging the pump. Once you take one apart to clean it I'm sure you will understand why that is.