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  #21  
Old 11-05-2009, 09:18 PM
GpsFrontier GpsFrontier is offline
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Originally Posted by Harlequin View Post
I have built myself a crappy frame. I can't stick them in the ground because they are sitting on my deck - it was more aesthetics more than anyhting that made the pvc pipe look good. I even bought green paint in preparation. Oh well.

All I have done atm is drill 2 holes in a thick peice of cypress and hammer in long steel rods.... It works but its ugly.
I wish I could be more help, unfortunately I don't have a clue what's available in Australia or prices for that matter. Also being that you are in Australia and I think everything is metric there does not help. I have attached 2 pictures of what I used if it helps at all. The 10 pack is the elbows, exactly like what's in the link from GGM. I didn't have any more 10 packs of the "T's" but took a picture of a single one for you if it helps.

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  #22  
Old 11-05-2009, 10:12 PM
Harlequin Harlequin is offline
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Originally Posted by GpsFrontier View Post
I wish I could be more help, unfortunately I don't have a clue what's available in Australia or prices for that matter. Also being that you are in Australia and I think everything is metric there does not help. I have attached 2 pictures of what I used if it helps at all. The 10 pack is the elbows, exactly like what's in the link from GGM. I didn't have any more 10 packs of the "T's" but took a picture of a single one for you if it helps.
Thanks. Pretty sure I can track something down now that I know that they can be that price.

Also even though we are metric a lot of stuff like plumbing is exactly the same... 1 incm - 25mm. same stuff.
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:23 PM
GpsFrontier GpsFrontier is offline
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Unfortunately I have sad news for these tomato plants. At this point I will be starting over with new plants in this system. I think I have spent enough time trying to save them from the brink of disaster, and it will be much faster to start them over. After re-transplanting them into the new buckets, they seem to have gotten a virus from flying aphids called a "winged pea or potato aphid." I have sense been able to get rid of the aphids but there effects linger on (stunted growth, curled and deformed leaves). I also believe the cold weather and nutrient temp (before the heating pad) has contributed to the plants immune system not being able to fight off the virus.

The system itself seems to be working perfectly and with no leaks. I have a waterproof heating pad I got from the Salvation Army thrift store for $1 that keeps the nutrients from getting to cold at night. I have some pipe insulation that I still plan to put on the P.V.C. tubing, and some flat rolled foam insulation to put around the buckets. Because tomatoes are a warm weather plant I will drape the trellis with clear plastic drop cloths, then heat the inside with small kerosene lamps/heaters at night because the night time temp here is getting into the upper 30's now. As I understand it, kerosene is a clean burning fuel that wont leave suite on everything and burns a long time.

P.S. The metal screen around the plants are just there to keep the rabbits from eating the plants.
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Last edited by GpsFrontier; 12-17-2009 at 06:37 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-23-2009, 02:09 AM
Harlequin Harlequin is offline
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Gutting - It sucks when so much work doesn't go smoothly.

I had a problem with aphids on my tomatoes. Initially I used natural based insecticide (white oil) to control but they kept coming back. Then I used a chemical pesticide. This killed them all on the tomatoes but they just moved to other plant (chili in particular). I was recommended to plant a basil plant in each pot with a tomato. This will make the tomato grow better and the aphids don't like the smell. Its reduced the numbers dramatically.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GpsFrontier View Post
Because tomatoes are a warm weather plant I will drape the trellis with clear plastic drop cloths, then heat the inside with small kerosene lamps/heaters at night because the night time temp here is getting into the upper 30's now. As I understand it, kerosene is a clean burning fuel that wont leave suite on everything and burns a long time.
With this I would be really really careful. This sounds to me like a big fire hazard..... Kero does burn relatively cleanly but it still has particulate in its smoke. It will over time build up on the inside of you tents. Also I would be concerned about contamination of your fruit. Kero has a very strong very unpleasant taste and when burnt some of the kero goes up in the smoke unburnt meaning it will coat the plants and the fruit and it's not particularly easy to wash off..

I would be more tempted to look at heat lamps or electrical heating before burning something.

Good luck.
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  #25  
Old 12-23-2009, 04:26 AM
GpsFrontier GpsFrontier is offline
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With this I would be really really careful. This sounds to me like a big fire hazard
Yes it could be especially when left unattended. I will take care to insure it will be safe from fire as well as the plants.
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Kero does burn relatively cleanly but it still has particulate in its smoke. It will over time build up on the inside of you tents. Also I would be concerned about contamination of your fruit. Kero has a very strong very unpleasant taste and when burnt some of the kero goes up in the smoke unburnt meaning it will coat the plants and the fruit and it's not particularly easy to wash off
I was told it was a clean burning fuel but I think they were talking about in the kerosene heaters. I have researched the heaters and they use Catalytic Converters (like in your automobiles exhaust system). Catalytic Converters use a chemical reaction between platinum and the unburnt fuel to create heat, this heat burns anymore unburnt fuel. The more fuel the converter gets the hotter it gets. In the case of automobile converters they usually get red hot inside and have been known to cause car fires when they get clogged (from cars that are not tuned properly).

I am unsure as to how much fuel is left in the kerosene heaters for the Catalytic Converters to react to. Although Catalytic Converters are not something you can build, and are too expensive (at least for autos) to use in a homemade burner. The smallest kerosene heaters I have found so far are 10,000 BTU's and run about $100. That's odd because the 40,000 BTU heater at Home Depot was $129.99, I'll bet that's because of the Catalytic Converter though. 10,000 BTU's is still way to much for my needs. I'm looking into other fuels also like lamp oil. Though so far I am not sure what the differences are. Here is a statement I have found on the subject:

"Lamp oil is a liquid petroleum product that is designed to burn cleanly in brass and glass oil lamps, torches and lanterns. In the same family as kerosene, lamp oil has been further processed and refined so that it doesn't produce as much harmful smoke, soot and other pollutants. Lamp oil can be used for everything from emergency indoor lighting during a blackout to soothing lamp light for a summer evening's barbecue."

I will also look into what the farming industry uses in orchards when the threat of frost is near, although I am pretty sure they use the kerosene heaters. I am also looking into using Propane. I know Propane burns clean by itself and may be a really good option.
Quote:
I would be more tempted to look at heat lamps or electrical heating before burning something
Unfortunately, these are not options for me. The cost of running these all night would be way too high for me to be able to consider them in anything other than a one night emergency. Small space heaters and small hand held hair dryers also would use way too much electricity to consider. Basically I cant use anything electrical.

There are too many variables for me to get into exactly how I will create the heaters until their done. I can tell you that they will be made fireproof. Also designed so they cant be knocked over by wind or something the wind knocks onto it. They will be wind proof, so the heavy winds wont be able to blow it out. They will also be directional, aiming the heat upward and allowing fresh air in without letting it be blown out. At the same time being defused to spread the heat out so it wont burn the plants as the warm air rises. They don't need to be big, basally nothing more than something the size of a few Tiki Torches is needed. The plastic sheets will never be able to get close enough to even melt much less burn. They will also roll up and out of the way during the day.

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