FREEShipping to the lower 48 US states
**Please read my ad belowfor more shipping information
Up for “Buyit Now” or “Best Offer” isa very nice, Show quality ½ scale Olds Hit and Miss scale modelengine machines by the well known Dick Shelly back in 1981.
This is a probuilt / machined ½ scale Olds engine that was made from Paul Breischcastings. It was machined by the well known Dick Shelly. On thebottom of the engine pads it\'s stamped “Made by Dick Shelly &Sons Manheim Pa.” “No. 11 7-81” So it looks like it is the11th one they turned out and it was machined in July of1981.
Update 7-29-16; Someone just asked me;
\"if these are breisch castings why is there no B on the hopper they look like the later castings\" Answer; I did some smoothing of the block before painting it and I filled in the \"B\" for a smoother look on the hopper. I do have photos showing the block before I painted it. Please ask and I will send you the photo.
I added tothe look of this engine by doing all of the polishing and paint workalong with machining of the brass exhaust stack and the crank shaftoil cups. I also made the “one way” bearing drill starter that Iwill be including in this sale. In the video I say that the starteris not included, but I have changed my mind and will be including it.This one is my prototype for others that I will be making. I havepurchased the materials to make a few more of these starters so Imight be offering some for sale in the future. It just makes startingengines like this so much easier!!! Especially on the very hot andhumid day when I decided to pull this off my shelf and get itrunning.
Whatyou get in this sale;
Youget the engine mounted on the shown cart/base. The crankshaftcover/guard that is shown in the video but is off in some of thephotos to show the engine details. And I am including my prototypeone-way bearing drill starter that is shown in a photo and in use inthe video. So please see my video so you can see the starter in use. (my drill is not included)
Note; The included starter key that goes in a drill is for a ½ inch chuckand that is what I recommend using. I can turn that down to a smallersize for you on request, but you might run into slipping of the keyor not enough drill torque to turn the engine over.
Ifyou are interested in one of these starters please let me know as Iam going to make a few more.
The enginefeatures a 1 7/8” bore x 2” stroke, 8 1/4” dia. Flywheels.There is a hand crank , flip out starter handle in the one flywheel.The engine itself measures approximately 15” long by 10” wide andis about 9 inches high from the base of the engine (stand notincluded in this measurement) to just above the top of the exhauststack.
The woodencart/base this engine is mounted to is 22 inches long by 14 incheswide and at the axle ends and weighs in at just under 60 lbs.
Many hours of machinework and assembly goes into producing a quality scale model likethis. A lathe, millingmachine and experienced operator were needed to finish the castingsand to fabricate the additional parts required. Havingto pay someone for all of the machine work and fabrication involvedwould cost quite a bit! I know I have about two months wort of workinto this one doing the paint and polishing work along with making afew parts and the starter.
I worked as aGoldsmith/Jeweler for well over 30 years and I have a vast mechanicalbackground once building successful racing engines for a few streetrods and dirt track race cars.
Here is a web link that will take you to the video ofthis engine running. Sorry for the low quality looking video.YouTube will only let me post a HQ video from my iPhone that runs notmuch longer than 5 minutes. This one is 11 minutes long so I had togo with a standard quality on the video.
Iffor some reason the web link does not work for you, then you can goto YouTube.com and enter this in their search box at the top of thepage. “1/2 Scale Running Hit and Miss Model Engine”
Myuser name there is JoeKind1958. ( Not my real name )
Ithink that the challenge in getting a scale engine like this to runand sound like the real thing is to run it slow and have it fire onjust one intake stroke after the governor kicks out as I haveaccomplished here.
Inlooking at many videos of scale engines on YouTube, I see that manyof scale engines are running way to fast and they need to go throughseveral intake strokes till they finally draw in enough fuel/air tofire just once.
Ittakes patience and experience to get them to run the way I show thisone running in the video. I will explain some more here in the ad.But I must first say that to avoid someone purchasing this engine andthey get upset because it does not run correctly for them, that youneed to have some understanding of how these engines work. All theinstructions I can give you are in this ad and in the video.
Aswith all of the hand built engines I have sold. I make noguarantees or clams here in my ad that it will run as good for you asit does for me or even if you have the mechanical ability to startit.
Ihave built several of these ½ scale Olds engines and I have anotherone on my workbench right now that I am totally restoring. They areamong the best looking engines when they are painted nicely, builtcorrectly and have some polished parts on them. They make a greatdisplay piece and are a real show stopper when on display.
This ½ scale OLDS features a point ignition withspark coming from a automotive coil that is mounted under the displaystand. The 12v battery and the white wire running from the battery tothis engine is NOT INCLUDED in this sale.
The fuel tank is mounted underneath the engine. Thereis a fuel fill located on the one side between the flywheel and theengine. The fuel fill cap is vented so there is no need to keep itloose. There is a brass fuel tank drain plug that you will seecoming out the front / bottom of the engine and it has a screw oncap.
This fuel tank has a built in “one way” check ballfuel flow valve built into it, but I found that it did not work likeit should. A properly running Hit and Miss engine freewheelsin-between the times it pulls in a intake charge and fires. It isduring this freewheeling time that fuel can siphon back into the fueltank causing there to be only air, not fuel at the tip of the mixtureneedle. When this happens the engine needs to cycle through a fewintake strokes to draw fuel back to the port where it comes out inthe carburetor all because it siphoned back to the tank. That is whyyou see people running these at a faster speed as the engine needs togo through a few intake strokes rather than taking just one intakestroke to pull in fuel. That being said I added one of my modifiedone way flow valves in line just before the carburetor. This valvekeeps the fuel at the adjustment needle tip and its ready to bepulled into the engine on the next intake stroke.
While I am on the fuel system I will say that the fuelmixture adjustment on this engine is super sensitive. Just one clickof the mixture needle one way or another is the difference betweenrich and lean. I found it ran best at one and one half clicks out. Isay “clicks” because you will see there are notches and a stop onthe mixture knob. So starting at “0” and turning outcounterclockwise one click on the stop then go half way to the nextstop. That is where it seemed to run the best for me. Now keep inmind that the temperature was in the mid 90\'s and the humidity wasvery high, almost 100% when I took the video. So if you know anythingabout getting a engine to run like it should, the fuel type, quality,heat and humidity play a big part in how a engine runs. I usedColeman lantern fuel with a few drops of model airplane caster oilmixed in for upper cylinder lubrication.
My opinion on the mixture needle.
How sensitive the mixture needle is (how much you needto turn it to make a engine run rich or lean) has everything to dowith how it adjusts the fuel flow into the carburetor. And this comesdown to the needle seat and the mixture needle itself. A short taperon the end of the mixture needle will result in a adjustment where itdoes not need to be turned very much to go from no fuel coming out toa full fuel flow. A long thin taper to the end of the adjustmentneedle will result in a finer control of the fuel flow as it will beneeded to be turned out more from the closed position to get to thefull flow point. This engine has a shorter taper on the end of themixture needle and that is why only a very small movement (turn) isneeded to set the air/fuel ratio. I have no problem with this, butif the next owner wants some better control over the fuel mixture,having a longer taper machined on the mixture needle is what youwould want to do.
I have a lot of experience with many different types ofthese model engines and this is the best advice I can give you onrunning this one. It\'s what worked for me. What works for you mightbe something completely different.
Ifit sounds like it\'s more than you can figure out on your own and youwant this for more than a display model then I rather have you passon the purchase, than purchase it and get upset with me because youcan not get it running. That is why I am selling it “ASIS”. I do not take returns and I make no guarantees on how thiswill start and run for you or even if you can get it to run.
NOTE:This is a running reproduction of a antique engine. It is a adultcollectable item and is intended to be used by a experienced adult.Just like the original engine, it has no safety guards in place,though this one does come with the crank guard that is shown inpossibly one of the photos and is on the engine in the video.
Looseclothing, long hair or fingers could become cough in any moving partwhen this engine is running or even being turned over by hand. Usecommonsense and keep your fingers (especially small fingers!) awayfrom all moving parts!
Disclaimer......Iam selling this Hit and Miss motor “AS IS”. I make no guaranteesor clams as to how it will run for you or even if you would be ableto get it started. Some mechanical knowledge and experience isneeded to run any antique model engine like this.
I have clear photos posted showing many differentangels. I have a video posted showing it running. I describe in thisad, details of the starting process. You are encouraged to ask anyquestions you might have before making this purchase. You should havesome knowledge of a engine like this, like how to maintain it, keepit lubricated and adjust it if necessary as I provide no instructionsother than what is in my videos and written in this ad. Noguarantees of any kind are included with a hand made, adult hobbyitem like this. What you see is what you get. The 12 volt batteryand the white cable from the battery to the engine is not included.It is not shipped with fuel in the tank.
Ifyou want a more detailed photo of something or have any questions Iwill be more than glad to respond in a timely manor. All you need todo is to ask as I will not be packing this item up till the sale hasbeen completed and I have received payment. Please allow me abusiness day or two to get everything packed up properly and shippedout.
**Shipping;I am offering FREE shipping to the lower 48 US states. For sales toAlaska, Hawaii and Puerto Ricco there will be a $175.00 surcharge tocover the extra shipping costs.
Packagedetails.... Like all of the items I ship, itwill be well packed and protected. The engine will be wrapped up inseveral layers of heavy duty industrial type bubble wrap. I will thenfit this into a box or surround it with cardboard before more layersof bubble wrap are added.
Thiswill all hopefully fit into a heavy duty 24 x 24 x 34 inch shippingbox. Total weight could be around 70lbs. I might possibly need toremove the engine from the wooden cart/base for shipping. It is heldon with 4 nuts/bolts and would require removing the hot wire to thepoints, take the wire off of the spark plug and the fuel line off ofthe carburetor. For you to mount it back on the base would be easyand would only take a short time.
Soplease allow me a business day or two to pack everything up forshipping once the payment has cleared. Thank you!
WARNING....(sorry but I need to post this disclaimer in my ad, you know likedon\'t play with a hair dryer in the tub)... This is gasoline poweredscale model engine that comes with no instructions or guarantees whatso ever!! Do not stick your finger or other body parts in a rotatingmechanical assembly!! The new owner assumes all responsibilities andliabilities to himself/herself and others with this engine. This isan “adult collectible” item not to be operated or played with bychildren. I make no clams to it being safe as it is a antique scalemodel reproduction produced back in the day when no safety guards,air bags, safety warning labels, ect.. were attached to dangerousproducts. I make no claims that it will even run as some might nothave the mechanical ability to figure it out.
Collectingmotors is intoxicating..do not drive or use heavy equipment whenunder the influence of collecting hobby items! LOL!!
Thelegal stuff;
* By purchasing this itemyou are stating that you have read my whole ad, you understand it andthat you agree with the terms and policy\'s stated in this ad.
*Except as expressly setforth in the item description, seller makes NO EXPRESS OR IMPLIEDwarranties of any kind whatsoever about this merchandise.
*Seller is notresponsible for consequential, incidental or punitive damages of anykind whatsoever. Sellers liability is limited to the amount of $1.00.
Ifyou have any questions, please ask before making a offer or buyingthis motor.
Ihave detailed photos posted. A link is in this ad that shows thisengine running. It is being sold “as is” and I will not accept areturn as all sales are final.
Thankyou for looking!!!
Shouldyou have any questions, please ask.
Thankyou for looking!
