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SBC CHEVY TURN KEY STAGE 2 HYDAULICROLLER CAM383CUBIC INCH ENGINE 470HP STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS. FORGED PISTONS AND H-BEAM RODS, ALUMINUM HEADS 210CC RUNNERS.
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROMCARB TO OILPAN. FULLY DRESSED OUT AS PICTURED.
Introducing our Turn Key fully dressed Stage 2 Roller cam 383 cid 470hp engine. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Premium pump gas friendly.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN.
Three year warranty, see details below.
This engine is designed to have a very high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The many pictures of our Turn Key engine are to show you how it looks from many different angles to give you true vision of what this engine looks like fully dressed out. It looks great from any angle in our opinion.
The dyno info above was ran with our cam choice # 1 and with our Crosswind dual plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel SS850 carb. Our test engine produced 460hp at 5,800 rpm, but we actually had a reading of 457hp at 5,600 rpm. That's very impressive at that rpm range, and if you did choose this combo, then I would let 5,600 be the max rpm. The engine is only sacrificing 3hp and coming in at 200 rpm less. You couldn't possibly ever hurt this engine by keeping it in that rpm range or less. The max torque number was 471 lbs at 4,400 rpm, but this engine produced 445 lbs at 3,500 rpm. I really like this combination for the street, but do understand that this cam setup is best suited in a somewhat light car with a decent final gear and stall. If your car is over 3,400 lbs then the second cam choice listed below is what you should choose with a rocker ratio choice of 1.5. If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 470. We do not recommend the single plane intake on any car that is over approx. 3,200 Please read the cam info provided below on the three cam choices before purchasing this engine.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 engine is a better choice versus the 350 engines.
1. The 383 willaccelerate most medium to heavy cars much better than the common underpowered 350's on the market.
2. The exhaust note that a small block 383 makes is much deeper than what is heard from the typical 350 engine.
3. The ability to put thisengine in medium weightcars without killing it's acceleration, or having todeepen the final gear, and needinga huge stall converter is a real plus in our opinion. Rest assured thisengine will accelerate a 3400lb car much better than the 350 is capable of.
4. Very low maintenance, and high drivability,yet making up to 470hp at the same cost as building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have three different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifold. Flat or dish pistons available.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance.You don't have toturn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce it's max hp enginethat's well built, such as this,up to 6,200 rpm.Thehydraulic roller cam is very reliable. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, and I know most of you say you never will, theresale of a street rod with a 383 engine in it, is very desirablecompared to those running 350's
7. The cost of the Stage 2 roller cam 383 engine offers more value than the 350 engine considering the power increase.
8. I'm not sure what the fuel consumption is, but 383 engines are known to be very efficient when setup properly.
We do a full test run on every 383 we build. Not exactly a dyno, but this procedure is performed on a test mule. The engine is ran for two intervals of 20 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you receive the engine it will be ready to install and run. We also include an engine stand as the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
The build sheet is as follows:
Dish or flat top pistons, your choice. We strongly recommend the flat top setup. The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured GM Gen 2 roller block. 1pc rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. This engine is bored and finish honed to 4.030 and calculates out to be a true 383 cubic inch stroker engine. All internals in this engine are 100% brand new.
This engine is built using our flat top forged pistons. The compression range will be approx. 10.9:1 The flat top setup will certainly make the highest horse power when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2 We do not see any problems with a 10.9:1 compression range. The compression number listed above for the flat top setup may seem high to some, and yes it is on the high side, but we find it totally acceptable for cars in the medium or less weight range. The forged pistons are highly resistant to detonation, should it occur. Those wanting to put this engine in a very heavy vehicle should opt for the dish piston setup coupled with cam choice # 3. We consider a vehicle of 3600 lbs to be a medium weight. Slightly heavier would still be acceptable for the flat top setup providing the vehicle had a decent final gear in the range of 3.55-4.11 Vehicles weighing over 4,000 would be considered heavy and should opt for the dish pistons, and cam choice # 3
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an oem late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. All machine work has been performed. Mains were line honed, cylinders are bored .030 over and torque plate honed, decks have been trued. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is setup with your choice of three differenthydraulic roller cams. See our other listings for the hydraulic flat tappet cam Stage 1.5 engine.This block will accept any style cam on the market. All internal parts are 100% brand new including all parts that are bolted onto the block as well as the cylinder heads.
The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, these are a true roller block.
Listed below are all of the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been lined honed to factory specs. This is another important procedure that is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed to 4.030 Theuse of a torque plate whenhoningis a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market fail to do this.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020 It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our flat top pistons have a taller than normal compression height, (1.145) This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .036-.040. Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times, but when installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue. Keeping the quench tight not only makes more power, but protects the engine from detonation to much greater extent than a loose quench.
The use of the 1pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era, (approx, 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008 we built approximately 900 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results, and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-470hp, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile. The advancements on the late roller blocks are many compared to the early style blocks. The only reason we stopped building the 383's with these blocks had to do with core availability. We have never used the early Gen 1 style blocks to build engines, as we find them to be far past there prime, and very much prone to oil leakage due to the 2pc rear main seal design. We have started a 383 engine program that is using this exact style of block. Buildups in the 450hp range are not a problem. A Howards brand roller cam is used with Delphi roller lifters.
We are now offering a flat rate shipping fee on this item, see details below. We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in the place of cars that have early style 2pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for one pc. rear main seal blocks are the exact same price as the early 2pc. rms Gen 1. This is the style block most people are going to.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This procedure was performed on a cnc machine for absolute accuracyand consistency. We have noticed some machine shops butcher these areas in theblock.
PC aluminum heads with 210cc runners, 64cc withcnc'd combustion chambers. 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs. These cyl. heads are made by Procomp. They are not the same heads most others are selling. Our Procomp heads have cnc'd combustion chambers. We also use our own hardware and do our own assembly to the heads.
We have madeat least50dyno pullswith the PC heads on various engines in the past, andtheyperformed faultless. Cam, carb, and ignition testing is what led to so much testing, but also an opportunity to make sure the PC heads would not have any reliabilityissues whatsoever.Ourhead builder made special note about the excellentstyle ofcutting on the seats inthese heads.
We know about combinations and how they work.
Our new Stage 2 engines are all built withthe PC 210 heads. This is the perfect size for a 383 build.
The picture below shows the cnc'd combustion chamber. We are the only seller that has this version of the PC heads. The runners are not cnc'd, only the combustion chambers. This increases flow characteristics, especially in the upper lift range, and balances out the chambers to exactly 64cc. No variance whatsoever. These heads have a 210cc combustion chamber. The stainless valves are 2.02 and 1.60 size, 200 long version for roller cam hardware.
Here is a rundown on the hardware we are using
NON MAGNETIC stainless steel valves, swirl finished one piece undercut. The same valve we have used for years, with zero failures. Non magnetic is very important. Our cost on these valves is around doublethe price ofsome low cost valves on the market. We know for a fact that many head buildersuse the low costmagneticvalves. We do not use themand never will. If the valves pull a magnet, they are not high temp stainless. They may be stainless, but they have very low nickel content in them.
Our springs are1.46 diameter dual springs, with an internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressurezone, but they are usually very short lived.Zero failures with oursprings.Thesprings in this setup are to operate with hydraulic roller cams up to.600 lift.
The heads used in this engine are setup forhydraulic roller cams.
We use only Comp Super10 degree machinedlocks. Our head builder found the low quality locks on the market to fit looser than he felt they should be. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm.
Scat9,000 series cast nodular steelcrank, 3.750 stroke
We do our own balancing with our brand new, 2013 model CWT 5500 Series Balancer. This machine will replace our 2011 Hines Legend balancer. The CWT 5500 is the absolute ultimate for precision balancing. When we balance the assembly for this engine, it will be to very high specs. Usually plus or minus 1-2 grams. We include a balance sheet with your setup.
One of the most important features of our balancing procedure is that we mount the flexplate on the end of the crank to assure perfection in the balancing. We serial number the plate, and can easily replace your flexplate to an exact match should you ever need. You would have to send us your damaged plate to match it. Many people have plates that have lost several teeth due to a starter issue. If this ever happens just send us the plate and we can reproduce it, and we do also compensate for the missing teeth, when matching up the plate on the balancer.
Scat 9000™ Series Crank Features:
- Made from an exclusive Space Age cast steel material for strength
No more hassles with poor quality OEM crankshaft cores
Knife edged counterweights
Straight shot oil holes for improved high RPM oiling
- Precision ground and micro polished.RPM Rating: to 7000 RPM
Scat 9000™ Series crankshafts are manufactured from an exclusive Space Age cast steel material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The 9000™ Series cranks are 25% stronger than stock OEM cast cranks and are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are in our opinion the best way to build a strong bottom end for your, street rod, dirt circle track racing, and drag strip racing performance engine.
We have used King bearings exclusively in every engine we have built. The King bearings are not only of outstanding quality, but they are very unique in design. Here is where quality, design, and value all come together. These are simply the best bearings on the market.
Our choice of rods are the extreme duty 5.7 H-beams made from 4340 alloy.
Pictured above are our H-beam rods with 7/16's 12 point cap screw heads. They are low profile in design. These rods will clear cams up to 600 lift with ease, and possibly larger. We now use these H-beam rods in all of our 383 engine builds, and find it to be an exceptional safeguard against rod breakage under most any conditions encountered with street/strip builds. This is not to say that all I-beam rods are inferior to H-beam rods. Rods such as the Scat Competition I-beam rods are comparable to most H-beam rods, but most ordinary aftermarket I-beam rods have 3/8's cap screws and pale in comparison. The larger 7/16's cap screws are far superior to the much smaller 3/8's size.
We have used these rods in many of our engine builds, and never experienced a problem. The rods in an engine are known to be the weak link. A broken rod or bolt failure will cause catastrophic damage to the engine. You will most likely not be turning over 6,400 rpm and making approx. between 420-470 hp depending on your setup. These rods would be nearly indestructible in applications such as that. This is not the case with conventional style I-beam rods with small 3/8's cap screws. We notice many engine builders using the lowest cost rods money can buy in their 383 builds. It's not worth the risk.
PROBE 2618 FORGED PISTONS. FULL FLOATING WRIST PIN DESIGN WITH TWO VALVE RELIEFS.
PROBE FULLYFORGEDFLAT TOP OR DISH PISTONS RATED AT 700+ HP THESE PISTONS ARE VERY RESISTANT TO THE DAMAGE CAUSED BY DETONATION COMPARED TO NON FORGED PISTONS. THESE PISTONS HAVE TWO VALVE RELIEFS AND USE FULL FLOATING WRIST PINS. PROBE PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. ALL OF OUR PISTONS ARE NOW MADE FROM 2618 AIRCRAFT ALLOY.
These pistons are the FPS line, but differ in one respect from what Probes catalog shows. The materiel used for ours will not be the 4032 series aluminum. The 2618 is normally only used in the SRS racing pistons, but we now have our FPS seriesmanufactured using this alloy.
Most forged pistons that are in the lower cost range use a 4032 high silicone alloy. Nothing wrong with this alloy, but the 2618 Aircraft grade is much more resistant to detonation. This is the alloy used on all high end racing pistons. Our pistons have a redesigned skirt to lessen piston rattle when cold. This is a common occurrence with pistons made from 2618, but due to the redesigned skirt this noise is at a minimum, and completely goes away once the engine is fully warmed up. The idea of using such a high quality piston in our engines is due to it's resistance against detonation. Many street rod engine builders are now using a very low cost piston known as ahyper-eutecticpiston, usually under the brand name of Speed Pro or Keith Black. We would not even consider using such pistons. The problem with these pistons is when subjected to detonation, they can fragment away from the rod. This can allow the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head. Those type pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but in our opinion should never be used in engines such as a 383 built above 350hp. The forged piston is so much more resistant to heat, especially those made from 2618 alloy such as ours. This alloy is also very strong, and should excessive detonation occur beyond the limits of this piston, it will not fragment allowing the connecting rod to destroy your engine. Not saying that a 2618 forged piston can't be destroyed from detonation, as they certainly can, but will withstand a much higher amount of heat vs other alloys such as the common 4032 and especially the hyper-eutectic pistons, and will stay intact.
We are offering three cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carfully.
Cam choice #1
PART # 180345-10
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .565 / EXT .580
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .300 / EXT .306
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .245 / EXT .253
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º
This cam choice coupled with our single plane intake and flat top forged pistons will produce 470 horsepower at 6,000 rpm. The dual plane intake will have much better drivability, and throttle response is also noticeably improved. The engine would feel stronger with the dual plane intake in the bottom and mid range. The single plane intake would have a greater impact on the hp numbers if the engine was setup in race form, as we have seen up to 20hp difference on larger cubic inch engines, and/or higher compression setups with larger heads and cam. The rockers used on our test engine were the Comp 1.5 ratio with this cam, as we found this cam to be somewhat at max size all things considered. It is possible that we would have made a bit more hp if we used the 1.6 rockers. Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 36 degrees total. 93 octane fuel. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 32-33 degrees. The actual dyno test was with a turn key setup with alternator, mechanical water pump, and pulleys on the engine. This is not the way most engines are dynoed. They usually have nothing but an electric water pump on them, and nothing else, and often use an MSD system that is setup with the dyno. Our test engine used the HEI distributor that comes with the engine. It's fair to say that our 470hp rating is on the conservative side.
This cam choice is what we consider aggressive. It makes the highest amount of horsepower, and has a very radical sound at idle. Peak hp would come in around 5800-6000 rpm depending on intake choice. If your car is above 3400lbs, and geared anywhere near stock then this cam would not be the best choice. We have two more cam choices listed below. A 2800-3200 Stall converter is strongly recommended when using this cam,
PART # 180345-10
and a final gear ratio of 3.55 or numerically higher. If your car is very light, under 3,400lbs or less then this cam is suitable. We recommend the 1.5 ratio rockers with this cam, as it's profile is on the high side considering the cubic inch and compression of this engine.The cams listed below would have a slightly better drivability. We use the 1.5 ratio rockers with this cam choice, but you may choose the 1.6, and it is not the practical choice as far as compatibility with this engine unless your car is very light weight.
Cam choice # 2
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .530 / EXT .545
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .286 / EXT .294
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .233 / EXT .241
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 112º We noticed the 112 lobe sep to operate very smooth with this cam.
This cam choice, (2) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting decent bottom and extremely strong in the middle, yet still making excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop to approx 440 with cam. This cam will make it's peak power at approx. 5500 rpm. If your car is in the middle weight range, and your wanting slightly better streetability then this is the correct cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at .345 or numerically higher, but keeping the gear ratio on the tall side is more acceptable with this cam compared to the first choice. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers for better low end response. This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice # 1
Cam choice # 3
PART # 180245-10
- VALVE LIFT WITH 1.5 ROCKERS : INT .500 / EXT .510
- DURATION IN DEGREES : ADVERTISED - INT .278 / EXT .284
- DURATION @0.050" : INT .225 / EXT .231
- LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE : 110º We decided to keep this cam at 110 as to not sacrifice anymore bottom end torque.
This cam choice, (3) has a slightly lower lift and duration than our cam choice # 2, and is highly recommended for use in heavy vehicles or full size sport trucks. If you don't have a heavy truck, but want a very high level of drivability, or street manners as it's often reffered to, then this cam would be a very good choice. Very little in the way of final gear or stall conveter modification would be needed with this cam. Power comes in much sooner with this cam than the other choices. Horsepower rating would be approx. 415-420 at 5,500 rpm. We kept the lobe sep at 110 on this cam for various reasons. The rule of thumb with cam size is that the smaller the cam in a given application will always improve low end response. A gear ratio of 307 would be acceptable with this cam, but that would be on the tall side. A 321 or numericaly higher gear would be optimal. The bottom end power would be much better with this cam than the two other choices above. This would be the only choice for those wanting to run an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 and be able to cruise at around 2000 rpm in overdrive. A stall converter of 2,000 would be the minimum for this cam. The only down side to going with this camis that overall horse power is reduced, but still in the 400+hp zone. Do not choose the single plane Hurricane intake with this cam, as it would be totally impractical. This cam will produce the least amount of stress on the valve train and cam and timing components. If you need help in selecting a cam to suit your needs feel free to contact our tech. department at 423-722-5152
THE THREE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR THE ANY STREET ROD.
We have had a few customers wanting to run our Stage 2 383 engine in a heavy duty work truck such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually used for trailer towing. None of the three cams listed would be suitable for this. We do have cams for such applications.
We have had a vast amount of experience with these type lifters, and rest assured there are many lifters on the market that are not a true anti-pump up style lifter. Of all the lifters we have ever used this lifter actually allows the engine to run up to 6500 rpm without the dreaded pumping up issue. Some of the anti-pump up lifters on the market are what we consider too aggressive in design, and create much noise upon de-acceleration. Some are much too noisy upon start up also.TheDelphi lifter is just perfect. It was on our dyno that we discovered through much trial and error that not just any lifter will work properly with high lift cams. We initially used our Speed Pro lifters in the engine with a high lift cam and they simply stopped working around 5000 rpm, or rather created too much lift from a pumping up effect", and held the valves slightly open. TheDelphi lifters did not do this, and went to 6400 rpm without an issue. These are the lifters used in our Stage 2 engines. Our hp peaks at around 6000 rpm in this engine with the larger of the three cam selections in this add. If you choose the smaller cam profile, the power will peak out at approx. 5500 rpm. A few other great characteristics of these lifters are that they do not produce noise at start up or when de-accelerating. Many of the so called anti-pump up lifters on the market will do this. As far as durability, theDelphi lifter is just as it should be, perfect. There is nothing special in the making of an anti-pump up lifter, but the design is very critical. This is where many other lifters on the market seem to have failed in our opinion. As mentioned above, if the design is too aggressive, the lifters will do well as far as not pumping up, but will have many undesirable characteristics. These lifters are 100% made in the USA
THIS IS THE ONLY TYPE PUSHROD WE USE IN OUR ENGINES. THEY ARE MADE FROM 4130 CHROMOLY STEEL. REGULAR SO CALLED HARDENED PUSHRODS WILL MOST LIKELY FLEX IN THE ENGINE WHEN RUNNING ABOVE NORMAL RPM RANGES, AND RISK BENDING UNDER HIGH RMP. THESE DO NOT HAVE THE WELDED BALL ON THE END. WE ONLY USE THE SWEDGED ONE PC. DESIGN. A WELL PROVEN DESIGN FAR SUPERIOR TO THE STYLE MANY OTHERS USE IN ENGINES. 4130 CHROMOLY STEEL IS ALSO MUCH STRONGER, AND WILL RESIST FLEXING. WHEN A PUSHROD FLEXES IN THE ENGINE YOU ARE LOOSING LIFT. DONT BE MISLEAD BY THE TERM, "HARDENED" AS THIS IS NOTHING MORE THAN A STOCK STYLE LOW COST PUSH ROD. THEY WILL FLEX IN THE ENGINE OR POSSIBLY PERMANENTLY BEND.
Single or dual plane Polish finish intake your choice, satin available if you prefer. The single plane intake should only be used on cars that are very light weight, and have good hood clearance. The Hurricane intake is approx. 2.25 inches taller than a stock intake. The dual plane Crosswind is only about 1.25" taller than a stock intake. The bottom end response is not optimal when using the single plane intake. We do not recommend it.
Any choice of valve covers you want. See our wide selection of very high end valve covers.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series.
The head bolts in this engine are 12 pointhead style with washers.
ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.
The timing components are the Cloyes billet upper and lower double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3
We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. We use this exact set in our 421 and 427 sbc engines. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel upper and lower. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. The cost on this setup is approx $129.00 This is approximatly five times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a fully array of lighting holes in it. It is a bit over-kill to use this expensive setup but what we really like about it besides being the most precise timing set made is that they come in three different sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have to much tension in the chain for various reasons, and if the mains have been line bored or line honed this can create a loose chain effect. This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit of this premium set is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way, and longevity of this setup would be most likely for life. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.
Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend staying with the 1.5 ratio for better low end response. The 1.5 ratio will also reduce stress on the valve train.
The High Energy™ Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms from COMP Cams® are an excellent quality rocker with an aluminum body and needle bearing fulcrum and roller tip. Designed to be stiffer and more durable. These rocker arms are capable of providing added valve lift while withstanding the rigors of a performance application.
Perfect for street and moderate race use. The larger-than-stock body of the rocker arms is made of aluminum for superior strength with light overall weight. Their specially engineered fulcrum and roller tip create far less friction than sliding factory models to lower oil temperatures, thus improving both response and horsepower. Snap rings are used to hold the trunion and bearings locked in place. Look for the COMP Cams® logo cast directly into the rocker - accept no inferior quality imitations. We now use these rockers exclusivly on all of our engines, except those running solid roller cams.
The oil pump used is a Melling M55-HV This is our preferred choice. The HV series oil pump is a much better, and more expensive, (about 50% higher in cost) pump than the regular M55 used by most others. The HV designation stands for High volume. The cast housing on this style of oil pump is much stronger than the M55. The regular M55 oil pump has an week area in the neck and can break off when used on high performance engines, not to mention the lower oil pressure output is slightly low in our opinion for the 383 stroker engine. Pictured below is a file photo. It will be the M-55HV used in all of our 383 engines.
Listed below are the items that are installed on the outside of the engine. These items are what make this a "Turn Key" engine.
BILLET ALUMINUM BREATHER, AND PCV BREATHER.
Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. It will be your choice of the breather/pcv setup pictured above or the exhaust evac. system. If you have chose cam choice 1 or 2 then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at it's best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.It would be fair to say that the fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level.The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit from the evac system is that your not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil, and combustion process. Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high rpm to handle the blow by gasses generated especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake, and couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gasses building up in the crankcase. There are many factors to this, and it's not etched in stone that you can't run a conventional pcv system, but depending on your setup and driving habits, the evac system may serve you better. Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forcing out of any possible orifice are common with engines that are unable to rid them selves of excess crankcase pressure. On a stock low compression engine the pcv system operates much better, but not on a street rod or race engine. You will never see any race engine using one at the track for sure. We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broke in the pcv setup is not as detrimental, but as mentioned depending on may factors, it may not be the best choice. The break in time is also likely to be much slower with the pcv setup. There is no up charge for the evac system. It requires a slight bit of work to install but is relatively simple
If you do choose the exhaust evac system there are few other recommendations I would like to make. The bullet style perforated mufflers not only sound the best, but also allow the evac system to work much better than chambered mufflers such as Flow Master brand. The chambered muffler creates a back pressure pulse that will somewhat interfere with the air flow and draw. They say chambered mufflers help bottom end response, and yes they do, but you should have no shortage of bottom end power with this engine. I can assure you the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect. These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, those are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound. Magnaflow is one of the popular brands of the true straight through mufflers on the market, and there are several others. The sound level is controlled by the choice of length you have. I find the 12-16 inch length to sound the best. If you choose these type mufflers be sure they have perforated inner walls not fluted.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past, but we noticed that from the driver side of the engine there was a birds eye veiw of the timing pointer, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
RED, BLACK OR CHROME STARTER AVAILABLE. YOUR CHOICE
Our extreme duty 3hp mini starter. We also offer this in red, and for those running headers with clearance issues, we offer the staggered bolt mini starter pictured below. We have seen some headers on the market that will not allow the use of the mini starter pictured above. Most will allow this starter to be used, but should you have a problem, the starter pictured offers much better clearance.
Polished aluminum high volume water pump, with aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality unit.
120 AMP ONE WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AND ALUMINUM BRACKET KIT
You will have a choice of colors on the HEI distributor cap. See our other listings for a variety of color choices. We thought the two tone setup pictured above looked best. If your putting this engine in a pre-75 model car, be sure to select the oe style distributor cap. The oe style cap will allow much better firewall clearance than the super cap. There are also a few cars that will not even allow any type of HEI distributor due to very close firewall clearance. If you suspect this to be a problem then we will install a Ready to run HEI distributor in the engine. This unit will have a cap size identical to the early point style dist. It will require an external coil, but this unit will be a full HEI distributor.
65,000 VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR AND 8.5MM MEGAFIRE SPARK PLUG WIRES
Let it be understood that the plug wires used on this engine are a very high end set made in the USA by United Wire in Cleavland Ohio. They are makers of most all the premium wires in this country. Also let it be understood that the superb sizing of these wires as can clearly be seen in any of the pictures did not come out of the box like this. We custom cut the wires to exact length. These wires are configured to go under the headers, as this is a very popular setup. If your running looms then let us know and we will custom size them to a perfect fit. If your running block hugger headers they will have to be configured differently also. So do let us know this information.
CHROME MECHANICAL HIGH VOLUME FUEL PUMP. THIS FUEL PUMP IS A TRUE HIGH VOLUME PUMP.
WATER PUMP, CRANK, AND POWER STEERING PULLEY
CHROME POWER STEERING PUMP WITH POLISHED PULLEY AND BRACKET KIT.
QUICK FUEL SLAYER SERIES 750 CFM CARBURETOR with fuel line and gauge.
The Quick Fuel Slayer 750 is included with this engine. It offers the best drivability, and performance. If you are selecting the cam choice # 1 you can still use the Slayer 750 carb but a slight reduction in top end horse power will be the result. Our test engine used the Quick Fuel SS-850 carb. to achieve max power. The carb that is included with this engine will be the Quick Fuel Slayer 750 with electric choke.
like most others we use our 5qt oil pan.
Our choice of oil pan and valve cover fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have a serrated face and built in washer. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine. Far superior to the typical bolts used by most others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.
We use Genuine Felpro rear main and timing seals. It is very critical that these seals are of the highest quality. We have seen terrible failures with some of the low quality 1pc rear main and timing cover seals. The Aluminum housing is Genuine GM. The other item in the picture below is an oil filter adapter, and this is included and installed on the engine. Many other 383 engines on the market are using the early 2pc. rear main seal blocks. We would not ever consider using them due to the fact they are very prone to oil leaks, not to mention they are very much past there prime and have many design flaws in our opinion.
Pro-Racedamper and SFI approvablerated flexplate.
The actual flexplate appearance may vary. Some of our shipments will have the zinc dichromate finish and some may have a black powder coat finish.
This is an extremely heavy duty flex plate. The plate section is 25% thicker than the oem stock model, and is double welded on each side. Your actual flexplate is balanced with the rotating assembly. Those running manual trans will need a flywheel. We do offer this item at an additional cost.
HIGH QUALITY POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER.
We use only Felpro seals and gaskets with our timing cover.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Our new Stage 2 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, VERYGOOD STREET MANNERS.Never run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees regardless of what your timing shows to be.You can never totally trust timing components accuracy.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING
For thosewith very heavy vehicles, such as4x4 trucks, 3/4 ton trucks,and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, plus trucks that may do light to medeum trailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine. We can build this engine with a dish piston, (-12cc) to reduce compression ratio. We would special order a cam for such use at no additional cost if the truck is being used for towing. We offer three different cam profiles with this engine, but if towing is desired then we may have use a special cam. The intake choice we strongly recommend would be the dual plane Crosswind. The single plane intake should not be your choice on any medium/heavy weight vehicle that is drove on the street. Single plane intakes do produce more top end horse power than the dual plane version, but they also move the torque band up higher in the rpm range. The hp difference is approx. 10-20 but this is only noticeable in top end racing. The optional dual plane intake that we offer has very large runners and will perform much better in the lower and middle rpm range. The dual plane Crosswind intake functions exactly as an Edlebrock RPM Airgap. Our Stage 2 engine comes with a three key way timing gear, and we do set it up in the middle, (straight up) position. You may experiment with this at some point to optimize your torque curve. Ignition timing should be ran at 32 rather than the more aggressive 35 degrees total when runing this engine in heavy vehicles. The above changes would help move the torque band down lower in the rpm range. The hp numbers would fall to approx. 400-415 but there is no doubt that the engine would have a very strong pull up till around 5,200 rpm. Thissetup in a heavy sized pickup truck would be very durable, and you may even be able torun a mid-grade fuel, butdo this with caution, and listen for detonation (ping and clatter). If your vehicle issomewhat lighter but still much heavier than mostmedium sized cars you may choose some of the recommendationslisted above for maximum drivability. The cost for any of the above would remain the same. We find the Slayer SS-850 carb by Quick Fuel to be the best choice when using our largest cam choice # 1, but the detuned version of this engine would be better suited with the Quick Fuel Slayer-750 carb when using cam choice # 3 Cam choice # 2 would also benifit from the use of the SS-850 but will do fine with the Slayer 750 having very little effect on horse power.
Should you decide to runnitrous or any form of forced induction, this engine is well equipped to handle up to a 75-125 shot. For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend the extra deep dish -20cc pistons regardless of what vehicle your putting this engine in.
SFI APPROVABLE FLEX PLATE,Black Powder coat or zinc dichromate from Scat. This flexplate will resist cracking, warpage, leading to imbalance in the engine.One good telltalein identifying acheap flex plate is the lack of welding on eachside where the plate mates to the ring gear.Oursarewelded on both sides,and is approx. 35 thousandths thicker than an oem plate. Never would we use the thinner plate on anassembly such as this.It is also zinc dichromate coated. We do offer new manual flywheels at an extra cost.
We would like to point out that the machinists that are doing this work have many years eachof experience building racing engines. Youcan rest assurethat this very critical work is being done to exacting specs and with great care. It would be comforting to know that all machine shops do this work properly, and most probably do, but you can bet that some do not have the experience or the proper equipment. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00
We donot dynotest each engine, as it notnecessary,but we have dynotested theoriginal setup to very extensive levels. We do now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost.
THISENGINE USES THE MOST DESIRABLE CHOICES IN PARTS. WE HAVE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND ARE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING THE BEST VALUE YOU WILL EVER FIND.
Many have asked why were able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It is because were also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase prices of the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master WD pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.
This engine has aTHREEyear warranty with unlimited mileage. Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine to and from you. The second and third year will cover all parts minus labor to remove and install any needed parts. Shipping is not covered in the second and third year of warranty. Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty, that can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, we will require an estimate to be submitted for approval. This estimate is to be in writing before our approval is given. It is doubtful you will have a problem with this engine for many years to come, as we consider this engine to be over-built for street rod use. Any damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. This does not mean you cannot enjoy this engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by competitive racing or from improper tuning. A rev limiter must be used on this engine. It should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
Tuning, Maintenance, and
Use regular 5w-30 motor oil in this engine, any brand will suffice. There is no benefit to running heavy weight oil. Heavy oils have numerous drawbacks, such as increased engine oil temp, reduction of horse power, slower start up, excessive oil pressure and slow pumping action throughout the engine. Synthetic oils cannot be used until the engine rings have fully seated. Rather than using mileage as an indicator of this, it would be better to use oil consumption as a guide. Pay close attention to this, and when the engine appears to have stopped using oil or dropped off to a level that does not seem to change, it would beokay to change over to synthetic, and it should be noted that oils such as Mobil One andCastrolSyntecare more forgiving to engines that are not fully broke-in. Syn. oils such asAmsoil, are not this way. You must be sure the rings are fully seated before switching over to this.Amsoilhas strict warning of this. The author of this article knows firsthand about using premium syn. oil in engines that are not fully broke-in, "BAD IDEA". For those running solid roller cams, it would be best to avoid synthetic oil until more is learned about its affect on solid roller lifters. The best oil filters to use would be ACDelco, K&N orMotocraft. The AC delco and K&N are known for having a very strong case on them. Change oil and filter after approx. 500 miles or about 6-8 outings. After this you may use a racing type oil filter as they allow better oil volume to the engine, but they must be changed a bit more often, as they have a less dense media in them. You must always allow the engine to warm up before any hard acceleration. It will be more important than you already know, let me explain. The forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy materiel as most street forged pistons are made from. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion and is somewhat loose in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons are, but none the less they are a bit looser. So let the engine warm up before doing any all out acceleration. It's not a problem to start up and go with it cold, but at a normal driving pace for about 7-10 min. You must run a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue it will be required that you can prove you have this. You can't just guess at it. Even with atach, there is no way you can control your engine speed all the time when running hard. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom of not having to watch thetach, and drive at the same time. Every car in the world from the factory has this feature and for good reason. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine. Racers usually gobeyondthis for several reasons, mainly to reduce rpm drop when going to the next gear or for crossing the finish line when out of gear. No need for this on the street and the engine will live much longer by not doing this.
You must run a vent system to pull the exhaust gasses from the crankcase. Usually thepcvsystem will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, they may not work so well. Depending on the cam,cylheads, and intake this can vary on how well it will work. The absolute best system to use in my opinion is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. Run one at least or one on each side is even better. They will gently pull gasses from the crankcase at all times, at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will seat faster, and much better. We now offer the exhaust evac system or the pcv system with this engine.You will have your choice of what type vent system you want with this engine. See the details on the two systems offered
One more thing I want to mention on engine break-in, as far as ring seating is concerned. As soon as your engine is installed, get the car on the road, and run the engine in an aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500-5,000 rpm for a few hundred miles at least. Drive safely please, not asking you to drive fast or aggressively, just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manor so to speak. Keeping the engine with load against it, and bringing the rpm up and back down will seat the rings in much better and faster. It is said that this allows the rings to be expanded out in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cyl. walls, and this will establish an even wear pattern on the cylinder walls. This is a well known fact. For the last forty years I'll bet I've heard my father say a dozen times, "you got to exercise a new engine", further explaining that it had to work somewhat hard in the beginning. I never really knew if that was just a so called myth or what, until many years later, I bought a new Dodge Viper, and the owner’s manual said to not run the engine at a sustained cruise for the first five hundred miles, but to vary the engine speed frequently, in other words, "exercise the engine" as my father put it. Then I also heard it from many race engine builders that one of the reasons theydynomany race engines was not just for tuning, but to put a good handful of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings in to a great degree, making the engine ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently cripple the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on thecylinder walls.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct.We recommend that you purchase a fuel to air ratio monitor.If your carb is running to lean, detonation is at your door. If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly. A tad on the rich side is not a problem, and can help resist detonation, a tad on the lean side will make the most power, and increase fuel mileage. It is best to keep it right in the middle in my opinion. You must check the timing on this engine regardless of the fact that we have set in when doing the run-in. The distributor may have moved during the crating procedure, or shipping, or during the installation of the engine. Set total timing at 32-34 Total timing refers to the reading at 3500-4000 rpm. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing. Do not use the vac. advance on any of our engines. It will not function as it was intended due to erratic, low air speed at idle and mid range rpm. You will not have a problem with how the engine runs without it. Be sure to have a high amperage battery. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy duty battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. These are priceless and will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting. Should you ever hear valve clatter or pinging as it's called at any time, reduce, (retard) the timing just enough to eliminate it. Timing that is set just below valve clatter will allow the engine to run at its strongest, and if you pull an additional degree or two out, it will be in a safer mode from detonation, and you will notice that the engine accelerates, not faster, but smoother, with less of a short winded tight feel to it. If you set the timing to low, the engine will run very poorly. Here are a few factors that determine the need for reduced timing below peak power, very high outside temp, heavy weight cars or trucks, lower octane fuels, such as 91 vs 93 never run regular regardless of how much you have reduced the timing,It won't be enough!If your only have 91 octane fuel available set the total timing at 31-33 You may have had an old car in the past that pinged and clattered for years, and didn't seem to hurt it, (actually it did in many other ways), This was because it was a very low compression engine. Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine from detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly. As for spark plugs we recommend theAutolitebrand, but whatever brand you use, we like to keep the temp range in the middle. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation, use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly. There are many exceptions to the rules on this but if you can get by with a colder plug then run it by all means. A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, and possibly difficulty in starting. Keep the engine temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950 never too far below this. If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor is more than two steps down from the recommended size, it can cause a constant leaning out at full throttle. Never let the engine idle for excessive long periods during the beak-in period. Do not overfill with engine oil. A slight amount less than normal is better than to much in most cases.
This engine has ahydraulic roller cam and will require very little, if any, maintenance. I personally like to check the rocker arms after a season of driving just to be sure all isokay. Use your ears for unusual sounds as this is the best indicator of problems or the need for adjustment. It is strongly recommended that you find a competent street rodder to adjust or check this out. Most modern day mechanics are not familiar with this procedure. Every two or three years it is advisable to remove the intake and inspect the complete roller lifter setup, as well as thepushrodends, and rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs.Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance free more or less and very long lived.
You may wonder why we have been so extensive on the above information. It is because we have had many customers that have bought our engines, and did not know any of the above. Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's anddon'tsis asking for problems. My suggestion is to join a couple of good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information that is very good on anything you want to know, or need to know about, but beware of those on forums that think they know it all, and really know very little. Explore the subject you want to know about from several sources, and read between the lines.
Enough Said, Skip White
Note from our company president, Skip White
We have been very selective on the choice of parts used in our New Stage 2 383 engine. Many sellers will offer lower cost engines, and we have found most of these engines to be substandard in our opinion. Many sellers are willing to take the risk to maximize profits and/or offer an engine at a very appealing price to maximize sales volume. The cost of a failed engine is not of their concern. We know where to draw the line on low cost products but keeping in mind that the product must be affordable for those with limited funds. Forged pistons became a necessity due to the fact most people will tune there engine to the edge of detonation for maximum performance or simply out of lack of knowledge on how to tune the engine. Detonation is so destructive to the engine, that we felt the extra money spend on forged pistons was a must. The protection gained from this was easily noticed by the fact we hardly ever have a customer needing a piston replacement due to failure resulting from detonation. Our next upgrade to the rotating assembly was the Scat crank. Slightly higher in cost compared to Eagle, but a far superior improvement in our opinion. Next would be our H-beam rods. It could be said that this was an overkill, but the price difference between these and the conventional I-beam style rodswas only around $125.00 I can promise you that a rod breaking in an engine will most likely lead tototal destruction of the block, crank, one piston/rod, and most likely one of the cylinder heads. It's a known fact that the rod is the weak link in the engine, especially in an engine with a longer stroke than used in the 350 engines. The flexplate was another item we have upgraded, and the additional money spent on this item was very little. It amazes me that other sellers will offer the oe style thin grey colored flexplates with single welded ring gears, when the Heavy duty version is only approx. $18.00 more. Our timing componants are also a huge upgrade from the lower cost version offered by Cloyes. As for our damper, we have seen many on the market that certainly fail to meet our standards, not to mention look very poor in appearance, and this improvement only added about $16.00 to the assembly. Last but not least is our choice of the 1pc rear main seal Gen2 GM blocks. This block is far superior to the early style 2pc rear main seal blocks in many aspects. It's design is highly resistant to oil leaks, and will easily accept any style cam you choose, roller cams being most desirable. Gm also made many advancements over early style blocks. The best part of these blocks is that they require no modification to live where the early style blocks once lived. GM kept all mounting positions the same including the ability to use any early style transmission on the market.
I have reviewed other similar 383 engines on the market, and find them overpriced considering what parts are used in them. The failures experienced by many who choose these low quality engines is very high. The machine work or may I say, "lack of" on many of the blocks used may also pose a problem, not to mention many are using very old 2pc. rear main seal blocks. The 1pc rear main seal feature alone is of great value. These engines do not leak any oil whatsoever after many years of use. Most all of the similar 383 engines on the market fail to say exactly what is used in their engines. You may notice them make mention of the hard parts, but never do they mention anything about items such as oil pumps, gaskets, timing chain model, piston rings, hardware, etc other than brand. Most of the items used in these engines are the lower cost version. The smaller items used in our engines are not the lowest cost version on the market, but not to be misleading it would be fair to say they are the middle ground, or better. This is why I feel it necessary to mention all of the items used in our engine, as I feel they are what is going to make the difference in reliability and longevity. If you want to make a true comparison, then you should request a full build sheet including brand and the actual part number or description of such items. You may notice some of the items used in this engine are actually a low cost/lower grade item, but have nothing to do with reliability or longevity of the engine. We do offer an engine like this with the upgraded version of many of these items. We are trying to keep the cost of this engine in an affordable range.
Do feel free to ask any questions you have about this engine. Our tech support line is 423-722-5152 or email us you questions using the contact tab associated with this add.
Your engine will include an extensive 30 page booklet with the build sheet, including tolerance specs, balance sheet, and pictures with descriptions of parts used in this engine. This booklet is for the most part a copy of this add, but will include your actual balance sheet, cam card, a tolerance spec sheet, and your invoice that shows your personal selection of the options offered. Our engine room manager,Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine, should you fail to receive this feel free to contactMisty at 423-722-5152
A final note,
Our user id is:skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.
Email us for shipping cost for overseas delivery. We have excellent sources for low cost shipping anywhere in the world
WE OFFER GREAT DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOU PAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEEON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR GROUP OF ITEMS, AND HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS.EMAIL US USING THE ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB,IF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO EMAIL US GIVE US A CALL AT423-722-5152 FROM 8AM-6PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 11AM-3PM ON SAT.WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAILWITHIN THE SAME DAY IN MOST CASES,SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. PLEASE CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING CORRECTLY, TO AVOID DELAYS IN SHIPPING YOUR ITEMS.
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FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE, "ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB". IT'S LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOUR UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE TILL AROUND 10-6 MON-FRI.
We have now included a flat rate shipping fee on this engine for the 48 state USA This rate only applies to delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered to a residential with lift gate service but at an additional cost. You engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle, at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is approx. $49.00 Your engine will also be fully insured. You are welcome to come pickup your engine in person, and delete the shipping cost. Should you decide to come in, you will be welcome to take a tour of our facility.
Paywith your credit card through PayPal, or call us at 877-383-5152 OR423-722-5152
This video is of our company race car owned and operated by Skip White. The engine in the car at the time this video was made is our Stage Three 400 engine. The 383 will not have the same performance, but it would be fair to say it's not a huge difference.