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Amigatec 01-03-2010 11:12 AM

Growtronix System
 
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I don't think I posted this yet, but I am using the Growtronix System. This is a PC based system for running your Growroom. The pictures I have posted were taken from my Mac via Parallels Desktop.

The first picture are the Power unit, Temp sensor, and Humidity Sensor.
The second picture is the Controllable Power outlet, the pump is plugged into the top and the Growlights are plugged into th bottom.
The third picture is the Desktop were you can see what the reading are.
The fourth picture is the grow journal.
The last is the picture is of the hardware screen.

Amigatec 01-03-2010 11:19 AM

I plan to expand this system as funds allow.

HydroACR 01-04-2010 11:23 PM

wow, that is awesome, are you using the iphone app as well, or is that just the web interface loaded on the phone?

andreamore 01-05-2010 12:11 AM

That looks very nice! Thanks for posting the pictures.

GpsFrontier 01-05-2010 04:00 AM

I finally had some time to do a quick search for the Growtronix System, I knew they existed but I just didn't know what it was called tell now. As I expected a bit expensive for me at this point, at about $1000 for the base unit. But in a year or so when I have my greenhouse, and hopefully Hydro Farm running that will go a long way to automating everything. As well as gathering the data to be more efficient with my guardens.

Amigatec 01-05-2010 07:43 PM

This runs on Windows, but I use an iMac for everyday use. I have Parallels Desktop loaded on my Mac so I can run Windows apps when I need to. Parallels allows me to run Different OS's at the same time. I have the whole system running on an XP box that I use only for Growtronix.

It was on sale last August and I just couldn't turn it down. I gave $745 for the system. It all runs on CAT 5 cable. I have a cable running through the attic into the growroom. I really like the graphing abilities of the program. I plan to buy a few more addons for it this year.

This is by FAR the best growroom package you can buy.

txice 01-05-2010 08:17 PM

Awesome system. Would love to get something like that setup. I'm a computer nerd at heart and by trade, so being able to control anything from a computer is high on my like list...hehe. I just can't justify spending that kind of money when I'm still trying to learn the basics. Maybe one day I'll get to this point though :).

Amigatec 01-05-2010 08:19 PM

I had to think about it, but at 25% off I just couldn't turn it down.

TTRgreen2010 01-15-2010 07:51 PM

Cool system
 
This is a cool greenhouse control system.

Do you have the PH/TDS sensor? If so, how well does it work?

Amigatec 01-15-2010 08:24 PM

Not yet I plan to buy it as well.

The system is on sale again 25% off!!!!

watercatwn6535nd 01-18-2010 07:55 PM

love my grow tronix
 
i bought growtronix several years back and it works very well. i have some video of my grow room at you tube. I update some video every couple weeks this winter. tomotoes and watermelon just started flowering. I alreday harvested my december radishes. YouTube - watercatwn6535nd

Amigatec 01-18-2010 09:35 PM

I like your system!!!!

Amigatec 01-18-2010 10:03 PM

What kind of hydro controller are you using to supply the nutes to the pots??

watercatwn6535nd 01-19-2010 07:04 AM

controller
 
when you say hydro do you mean my water supply to the tanks? I just use a fish tank float system in one of the buckets and some of that 1/4" ice maker water line to a copper pipe and one of those valves that pierces the line.

txice 01-19-2010 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watercatwn6535nd (Post 3882)
i bought growtronix several years back and it works very well. i have some video of my grow room at you tube. I update some video every couple weeks this winter. tomotoes and watermelon just started flowering. I alreday harvested my december radishes. YouTube - watercatwn6535nd

You know....I sort of got into the whole indoor gardening/hydroponics thing on a whim. A silly idea a co-worker and I had when we thought it would be fun to try and grow some hot peppers after we saw some Youtube clips of some guy recording himself eating insanely hot peppers. Never really grew anything before so I started at a great disadvantage there...and to jump straight in to trying to grow hydroponically indoors...well, it's been a trip for sure. What really surprised me, however, is the fact that I've just gotten really really geeked out about this. It's not just a silly whim anymore and its something I've become quite passionate about. I'm learning as I go...having some decent success (at least I would guage it as such considering this is my first attempt at growing anything), but didn't really know enough to plan things out well. Every now and then I see something that makes me rethink my direction a little bit.

Then I run across a post like this one and I just get all mixed up.
On the one hand, it's a great learning tool for someone like me to see how other people have stuff set up and how they work and succeed in growing. On the other hand it's extremely frustrating because now all I want to do is tear down everything I've done so far and start over! LOL.

I really like your setup! I'm also curious about the bucket system you have there. Is that a "purchased system" or is it just something of your own design that you pieced together with parts here and there?

GpsFrontier 01-19-2010 06:44 PM

Quote:

On the other hand it's extremely frustrating because now all I want to do is tear down everything I've done so far and start over! LOL.
Even if you do start all over, a few months later you will probably want to start over again. Like a kid in a candy store, no matter how good the piece of candy you have is there always seems to be a better piece in the next jar. That's fine if you can afford the whole candy store. The feeling like starting over only means that you have learned quite a bit about how hydroponic systems work, and you see improvements you could make. Great things to keep in mind for the next system. Although for me there never seems to be an end to improvements I can make, in my quest for function and low cost hydroponic systems. I have plans to build about 15 different hydroponic systems, and have no doubt that I would be able to make improvements to everyone of them in a few months of watching them work (even designs I've already done).

Even though it's not what I am likely to do, starting out on a small scale to learn from it is the best thing to do. Nobody wants to spend a lot of money to build a large scale operation just to find out all the the things they need to do to get it to work the way they thought it would. If I had the money I would spend every hour of every day building and running hydroponic systems, as well as learning from it all for the next systems. The hard part for me is the funds, deciding what I can do within the funds I have. The frustrating part is not having the funds to do all I want to do. :mad:

I like watercatwn6535nd setup and am most interested in the lighting, although I would have a couple of concerns about it. Like the setup would work well for tall plants, I would want it adjustable for plants that grow wider than tall. Also, with so many lights (and from another post I believe they are over driven lights) I would be concerned with the cost to run them. Things I would want to look into before I built something like it, or I may be wanting to start over myself. I believe I could grow that many plants indoors using no electricity, just the cost of setting it up. The growtronix system looks like a great system, but not necessary unless you have a large operation to control. Just the base unit alone runs about a grand, and with the extra sensors and controllers you could easily be up to 2 grand. I can build the small scale hydroponics farm I want with 2 grand.

The hydroponic system the plants are in themselves looks to be a store bought system (although I could be wrong) and although it looks to work fine I have a few concerns there also. Some of it just may not be covered in the video, but I have some concerns about the root zone with the combination growing medium and dangling roots. As well as the single spout water delivery to the plants. Also some of those plants would get way to big for the system unless they were small variety's like the tomato's. I would easily be able to build something quite similar myself, but I would probably make some changes to it, and how it functions.

watercatwn6535nd 01-19-2010 10:06 PM

sunrise finally in the grow room
 
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what country is my grow room in? sunrises at 5 51 pm sunsets 18 hours later? probably the moon.

If i were building a new system I would use that 2 liter bottle method on pvc plastic. spray paint it all black and drop net pots in the 2 litter bottels so i could keep the roots trimmed up so they dont clog the drain hole. then i would put it my garage with lights over it and if i was worried about the power bill grow lettuces and low food and light plants. lettuce will grow to 50f i think. then i would build it wheels and roll it out into the yard through the garage door in the summer time. one extension cord will run one fish tank pump and one pond pump with drippers on each plant. have the whole system at the bottom dump inot a 30 gallon tote from the home stores for $20. i thik i may just build this come spring.

cheap easy fast light weight a couple guys could carry a big system or you could make it in sections that hook together with hydro farm hose like in my videos for my room. wouldnt take much to do a dozen rows 20 foot long and would last for years.

elevated off the ground to stay away fom that nasty dirty earth and hang all your fruits in bags next to the plants or build some trellis set up.

no bending over!

I think i have attached a screen shot of my grow room climate?

txice 01-20-2010 08:17 PM

Yeah I hear ya. I have definately learned a lot in the short time I've been doing this and would definately like to change some things. For example, I like my tub design with everything being enclosed in it, but I've come to learn that I would probably prefer setups that had the reservour seperate from the plant container. As my pepper plants are getting larget I'm finding it more of a hassle to do nute changes and solution tests in the systems. I would love to be able to try and design an entire room from scratch such that I had a central reservour location easily accessible for changes/tests. A single method to cool/chill the water in the reservours, and then the ability to move the solution to and from these reservours to the respective systems....what ever they might be. An unlimited money supply would probably make this task much easier...but alas I don't have that. I want to expand/improve my setup I have now, but I don't want to keep doing it peicemeal and end up with a bigger mess to fix than what I already have now.

txice 01-20-2010 08:22 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by watercatwn6535nd (Post 3913)
If i were building a new system I would use that 2 liter bottle method on pvc plastic.

I actually find it quite interesting to see this. Are you not happy with your current system I take it? Just out of curiosity have you thought about maybe doing up a video like the ones you have detailing the plants you're growing but instead giving an overview of how your system is setup and runs? In a couple of your videos I noticed quick glancing shots of what looks like a small white box at the end of one of your plant rows....is that a chiller?

EDIT: Attached a screen cap of the part of your video I was talking about.

Amigatec 01-20-2010 08:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
You might try this kit here, you can build any size Ebb & Flow you want to.

Ebb & Flow Control Kit

Amigatec 01-20-2010 08:32 PM

I plan to buy one on there Top-it-Off Kits, to pump my return tank back to the res.

txice 01-21-2010 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amigatec (Post 3922)
You might try this kit here, you can build any size Ebb & Flow you want to.

Ebb & Flow Control Kit

Thanks for the link, I'll give it a look.

On a side note about the growtronix in general. You know...the more I look into the system, the more reasons I can seem to find why I don't think it's very cost effective for a hobbyist. I can certainly see the draw for having the automated grow log and such, but even at the discounted price of $730 or so, being able to monitor room temp/humidity and being able to programmatically control two power outlets seems rather unhelpful. That's a lot of money for some very basic automation. And the add-on modules all seem rather pricey as well. I don't know. Perhaps the cost is just scaring me off.
How finitely can you control the power outlets? Could you set up some type of schedule for the outlet to make it mimic an aeroponic cycle timer for instance? Say have a cycle that begins and ends and a certain time and, while the cycle is active, power the outlet is such a fashion that it turns on for 45 seconds and stays off for 3 minutes, and repeats this pattern throughout the cycle?

Amigatec 01-21-2010 06:23 PM

Yes the trick is in writing the policies. You can turn stuff and off when ever you want. I think the reason the price is so high is because the weed growers will pay that much for it, if they can remotely monitor their grow room.

GpsFrontier 01-21-2010 06:27 PM

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Quote:

You might try this kit here, you can build any size Ebb & Flow you want to.
Interesting concept. The attached picture is of the way it is supposed to be set up if I am correct, although it all seems overly complicated to me. With 2 reservoirs 2 pumps 2 sets of on and off switches. Also, it doesn't specify, but I would hope it comes with a completely programmable timer. Because it wouldn't take long for the growing chambers to fill and trip the overflow switches. I'm sure that trips the overflow switches and the other pump.

Basically a quick fill and then drain, not necessarily a bad thing but will need many more cycles per day than a system that floods for a period of time (30 min or so) then drains (depending on type of plants and growing medium, exposed roots etc.). This could be a problem unless you had the capability to have as many cycles as you need. If it were able to fill and stay flooded for a while (say 30 min) the current configuration only allows water to circulate through the single inlet/outlet. That wouldn't allow any water circulation while it was flooded. To get that water circulation you would need to flood-drain, flood-drain, flood-drain, flood-drain, many more times a day and most timers don't have enough settings to allow that all day.

I see the inlet lines to the individual plants. To me, placing a overflow line from each growing container back to the reservoir would eliminate the need for all the electronics duplicate pump and reservoir. You could still have as many plants as you want. The only possible reason I could see for doing it with all the extra stuff is, if you were so confined in space that it was not possible to have the reservoir below the growing chambers. That is the only thing needed for the system to overflow and drain without all the extra stuff. The more moving parts, the more there is to malfunction and go wrong.

Amigatec 01-21-2010 06:34 PM

Here is the whole system.

ebb-grow-bucket-system

http://www.pchydro.com/bmz_cache/e/e...ge.239x239.jpg

Amigatec 01-21-2010 06:35 PM

But at $575 it is a bit pricey.

I plan to buy more waterfarms and turn into a recirculating system

Amigatec 01-21-2010 06:37 PM

The kit I posted has the same parts as the E&F controller bucket does.

GpsFrontier 01-21-2010 06:57 PM

Quote:

As my pepper plants are getting larget I'm finding it more of a hassle to do nute changes and solution tests in the systems.
Yes I saw this as a problem from the start although you mentioned building a more permanent home for your plants in the beginning, but I was not exactly sure what that meant. I was thinking the system they are in now in was a stepping stone to the final destination. That's why I mentioned they would get way to big for that system. That is why it is important to to me to take into consideration size of the full plant when deciding how to build the system.
Quote:

I would love to be able to try and design an entire room from scratch such that I had a central reservour location easily accessible for changes/tests. A single method to cool/chill the water in the reservours, and then the ability to move the solution to and from these reservours to the respective systems....what ever they might be.
Me too, the money is all that's holding me back. I plan to have a greenhouse (size/s to be determined) for plants that need/ want complete climate control. As well as many outside systems for more hardy plants or plants that are in season, and/or plants that I can help along the way in the off season.
Quote:

I want to expand/improve my setup I have now, but I don't want to keep doing it peicemeal and end up with a bigger mess to fix than what I already have now.
Ya, nothing wrong with that. We always want to improve what we have.

Amigatec 01-21-2010 08:24 PM

The problem with a center reservoir is that if you get a fungus infection, it will affect the whole garden. Also plants have different nutrient requirements.

GpsFrontier 01-21-2010 08:49 PM

Quote:

Here is the whole system.
Yes the commercially built system is very expensive and is not worth the money to me. As long as you can place the 5 gallon buckets above the reservoir there is no need for the extra base reservoir and everything inside it.

5 gallon buckets $2.50 x12= $30
32 gallon trash can for reservoir $10 (WalMart issued)
Black vinyl tubing $20 for 40 feet. (although the the blue vinyl tubing from a hydroponics store will work the same and might be a little cheaper)
"T" connectors for vinyl tubing $.50 ea x12 $6 (I always have extra)
Through holes for inlet $2 ea x12= $24
Through holes for overflow $2 ea x12= $24
Pump $45 (300 to 500 gallon per hour, with vertical height of up to 8.7 feet) I got it at Lowe's
Timer $15
Miscellaneous P.V.C. fittings and tubing $40 (that's probably overkill)
Both black and white spray Paint to light proof and then reflect light $.99 ea x30= $30 (although brush on paint might be easier and cheaper for that much painting, your finger gets tired)

Total about $240 or less for me to build. Well under half the price, and many less moving parts that can fail (pump and timer are the only moving parts).

You possibility may need a 40 gallon reservoir for 12, 5 gallon buckets. There will always be a small amount left in each bucket when drained, and the growing medium will take up some space. Also you wont be filling it all the way to the top either. All in all probably wont need more than 2 to 3 gallons of nutrient per 5 gallon bucket. However you do want some reserve nutrient as a buffer. If you want the larger 55 gallon drum like the commercially built system, you can get a 55 gallon rain water collection barrel for about $60. Although I would use 2, 32 gallon trash cans with a siphon hose between them (8 to 10 foot piece of garden hose), making sure both ends of the hose are waited down so there is no interruption of the siphoning action. This also allows you to split it into two different smaller systems later, if you get another pump.

This is one of the designs that I am planing to build. I am also planing to put the complete directions with all the little details like connecting the through holes to the vinyl tubing and P.V.C. to run back to the reservoir in pdf. form on my website. I also plan to show how to run this design as both Flood and drain (ebb & flow), as well as in a drip system.

Amigatec 01-21-2010 09:01 PM

The system I want to build the plants will be a floor level, with the res beside them. I will have to find a way to pump the return solution back to the res.

GpsFrontier 01-21-2010 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amigatec (Post 3939)
The system I want to build the plants will be a floor level, with the res beside them. I will have to find a way to pump the return solution back to the res.

If it's not possible to set the plants on a bench or something with a short wide reservoir below it. You can always build the same system I mentioned with the addition of the extra smaller control reservoir with the Ebb & Flow Control Kit in it like the commercial system. Although water circulation will still be a problem if it doesn't have the capability to have a lot of on/off cycles. Just flooding the system until it fills then draining it right away, and doing it every 15 min or so, otherwise they will be sitting in basically still water until it drains. I'm not sure if you are referring to the system you were building for your peppers in another thread. I can possibly come up with a better solution if I know the specifics.

It looks like with the Ebb & Flow Control Kit you will still need to buy both pumps. It seems like the kit turns on and off the second pump with the switches but not much of anything else for the $80. You still need to buy both reservoirs and pumps in addition to the $80. Either way the plants need to be slightly above the ground or the second pump will run dry before it drains all back. That's what the second set of switches is for (best as I can tell), to keep that from happening. This still leaves a few inches of water in the buckets with the plants. This will mean that the plants roots will inevitably be sitting in water as they get bigger.

Amigatec 01-21-2010 09:35 PM

I plan on using Bato Buckets, with a drip hose in each backet and drain the system into a PVC pipe. The PVC would run to a small container that would pump the solution back into the large res.

GpsFrontier 01-21-2010 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amigatec (Post 3941)
I plan on using Bato Buckets, with a drip hose in each backet and drain the system into a PVC pipe. The PVC would run to a small container that would pump the solution back into the large res.

I guess like a dutch bucket system with a bucket in another bucket, and then the smaller bucket will be a few inches off the ground to allow it to drain into the P.V.C. and back into the reservoir. Anyway the return line is below the bottom of the growing medium. I will need to do some thinking and drawing but I might be able to figure out how to do it with just one pump and one or two one way flow valves.

watercatwn6535nd 01-22-2010 01:22 AM

floats
 
just hook your pond pumps to fsih tank floats. i have a old system that used bathroom toilet floats there totally adjustable for height if you by the new style and no big floats any more on them.

sound so me like what you should be doing is a deep water system with just air stones in it and no pumps its the best system by far and almost no faluire possiblity. just use plastic totes i like the 30 gallon ones. cut a piece of foam that is 4 inches thick to fit in the tote and hole saw spots for net pots to fit in the foam. drop in one $9 wally world fish air pump and now your plants are floating so teh water level is always perfect and you just add water as it needs it to keep it full.

You just cant get a bad grow out of this system.

GpsFrontier 01-22-2010 05:40 AM

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This is just a rough idea at this point, I haven't had much time to check on using different materials and to refine the whole concept, as well as any testing. The image is a also just a rough picture because I didn't want to spend a lot of time on it in case it's not something you can use.

When the pump turns on, the water is pumped into the top reservoir. As the water rises in the top reservoir it flows down the open drip system to the plants. The simple float in the lower reservoir is gravity feed from the top reservoir. This will insure that the water level in the lower reservoir wont get to low and run the pump dry. If the drip system doesn't drip fast enough, the overflow from the upper reservoir to the lower one will make sure that the water level will never back up and get to high in the top reservoir. As well as help make sure the pump will never run dry also.

The simple float in the top reservoir is attached to a fresh water line to keep the water level correct (sorry I forgot to show the fresh water line in the image). This can be a water line directly from the pluming or a gravity feed line from a third reservoir. A third reservoir could have just fresh water or a diluted nutrient solution to replace what was used by the plants and/or evaporated. In either case you wont need to check the system daily and it could be left untended if you go on vacation.

The simple float is just an open and close valve like the ones found in a toilet tank and in swamp coolers. There are many different designs of these float valves. I haven't been looking around for them, but those are the two main uses I know for them. Also, it's not in the picture, but I would design the placement of these float valves so they don't actually go through the wall of the reservoir, but sit inside the reservoir instead. That would make it more adjustable in case you want to use the reservoir for other designs later. How to do this would depend on the actual float valve used but the base would need to be heavy enough to stay put underwater.

The adjustable height P.V.C. tube is just a short tube with a couple of elbows, this makes it easier to set at the right height. This should be placed at the height of the water level you want the drip system to start flowing at. The simple float should at this level also. This way when the pump turns on it will start flowing through the drip system right away, and when it turns off the float will make sure the water level does not drop below this. Other than the 2 float valves the only moving part is the single pump.

Amigatec 01-22-2010 08:31 AM

I like the idea, but after looking at it, I have a way to improve on it.

Use the top res to top-off the bottom res. Use the bottom res to water the plant with. Run the pump to the drip lines, and as the bottom res empties the top res via the float will keep it topped-off. This way the pH/ppm in the top res will always be right and should keep the pH/ppm in the bottom res correct.

GpsFrontier 01-22-2010 08:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Amigatec (Post 3946)
I like the idea, but after looking at it, I have a way to improve on it.

Use the top res to top-off the bottom res. Use the bottom res to water the plant with. Run the pump to the drip lines, and as the bottom res empties the top res via the float will keep it topped-off. This way the pH/ppm in the top res will always be right and should keep the pH/ppm in the bottom res correct.

Good idea, your absolutely right.

That will also make it less complicated and eliminate the float in the top reservoir, as well as the need for the P.V.C. overflow from the top one to the bottom. It will also eliminate the need for the adjustable height P.V.C. tube, and it will eliminate the slack in water level between the bottom reservoir and the top reservoir before it actually starts flowing trough the drip system. As well as any need for a fresh water line from the pluming and/or a third reservoir.

The only potential drawback I can see is in the bottom reservoir not circulating water with the top one. That could have an effect on the nutrients as they are being used by the plants. You wouldn't have that buffer water like in a large reservoir feeding the plants. It would be more like a reservoir with just enough water in it run the system and adding fresh nutrients back as it's used up. You could from time to time however take water from the bottom reservoir and hand pour it into the top reservoir and let the float in the bottom one replace back what you displaced. Basically hand circulating it, to better dilute the depletion the plants using the nutrients they need and leaving the rest of the nutrients in the small/bottom reservoir.

Amigatec 01-22-2010 09:06 PM

I was thinking on this again, and the way to fix that would be to add a T and valve to the line coming from the top on the pump and run some of the water back to the top res. You could use the valve to regulate the flow to the drip lines. Just make sure the return line is above the water level so it doesn't back flow and overfill the bottom res.

Amigatec 01-22-2010 09:11 PM

The other thing is with the return water flowing back to the top res, it will help with adding O2 to the water. I could make some kind of diffuser to go on the end of the hose.


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