Quote:
Originally Posted by GpsFrontier
PPM is simply a measurement of nutrient strength, unfortunately a PPM meter can't tell you what elements are in the nutrients and their individual concentrations, just their total amount. |
Yeah, I'm totally with you on this aspect. I'm not quite ready to dump the money into individual test kits/meters to be able to figure out the individual nutrient concentrations just yet....maybe later. So a TDS meter and a "ball park figure" will have to do for the time being...hehe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luches
Don't cut back nutrient strenght to 1/4 and not even to half. If you cut it back now, just cut back to about 75% of what you have now.
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Doh! Did full nutrient changes this evening and already dropped my mixutre by 1/4. I simply took the Technaflora recipie, multiplied the mix by the total number of gallons like I normally did, then divided that amount by 4. The ratio of each nutrient to each other is the same as what I'd used before, just not quite as much of each....though you said it doesn't necessarily work that way? Not the end of the world though because I can always add more nutrients.
This actually
led me to another question (and probably a fairly stupid one). When I'm shooting for a certain ppm goal/target, should I exclude the ppm reading from the tap water? I'll expand on that a bit. When I use the TDS meter on my water straight out of the tap, it reads just a shade under 200ppm. So if I want to reach a ppm of say, 700 ppm for example...should I actually target a straight 700 ppm reading on the TDS meter (thinking this would be more like 500ppm of "nutrients" and 200 ppm from the tap water)...or would I actually want to take the reading up to 900ppm so it would be more like a true 700ppm of nutrients? Does that even make sense? I know it's not a straight forward answer because I don't actually know what compounds makes up that 200ppm in the tap water...but that aside, should I pretend like that 200 isn't really there and adjust my meter readings accordingly?