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#1
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Here is a quick 5AM example of my system.
The two pipes by the two sides use T's. And the pipe for the drain is made for a smaller pipe, I believe 2 inches. ![]() And yes, it's all glued sadly. Last edited by FalseFlash; 05-08-2013 at 05:53 AM. |
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#2
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Damn, I just tested it with a hose. There is a slight bend in the middle of the pipes that's causing it to gather at one end. No matter how much I try to level it the system just won't work right.
I guess I went too cheap on the big pipe. Is there a way to fix this so I don't lose $380? |
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#3
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Sorry I just saw this post after I already posted.
Quote:
Why spend more money on scheduled 40 PVC, and it isn't even light proof yet. Costing you more money to light proof, and it still flexes under weight anyway. The only pipe that wont flex is steel, and that's unstable for hydroponics. Even the very expensive schedule 80 PVC will flex in 10 foot spans with no support in the middle. Last edited by GpsFrontier; 05-08-2013 at 07:35 AM. |
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#4
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I will be using this as NFT with net pots. The pipe is like bowing upwards.
Also, I was a bit off on the drain, the line should of been on right before the pipes in the center. Sorry about that, I only slept 2 hours or so. ![]() Here is a picture, not the greatest picture but it will give you an idea. You can defiantly tell I had no idea what I was doing lol |
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#5
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If it comes down to it maybe it could be converted to a flood and drain if it's too bad?
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#6
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Okay, I got it a bit more level. The valve is not going to work like you said, its deeper on one side and shallow on the other where the valve is.
I'll wait for your reply before I do anything else. |
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#7
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It is easy to convert, Just need a timer, some medium like pea gravel or perlite and a different drain. Guess I thought you were going for something closer to what I did. BUT I have learned that the more mistakes you make the more you learn so don't feel to bad. GPS Frontier is awesome and should be able to come up with something.
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#8
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OK thanks, that drawing helps me understand your layout. Your downward overflow (I assume that is the overflow) is unconventional in it's placement. But installing a overflow with that design and in that spot is still quite simple. I will need to take a few minuets to think about how I would make it easily adjustable, and get back with a drawing tomorrow. It wont be hard or expensive, still cheep and easy. I just need to make a few drawings to see what works best in my head.
One question though is where the line pointing down for the overflow is. Do you intend to use a "T" connector to do that? Or are you trying to install a flexible line there that would need to be sealed? My suggestion would be to use a "T" connector. From that you can easily adapted a flexible line if that is what you want to use, or a solid PVC line as well. Also using a "T" connector will give you a place to connect and make changes if you wish to in the future. Not to mention give a place to attach a fitting to a flush surface on a end-cap that is much easier to do. Also I still don't know if you are going to run it a s a flood and drain, or NFT system. I'm assuming it will be a flood and drain system at this point. That makes a difference in the overflow height, as well as angle of the "T" connector for the overflow. I can come up with a plan to make it interchangeable from a NFT to a flood and drain design as well if that is needed. Making the flood and overflow lines adjustable gives that option as well. Also I don't know if you are going to use baskets, or fill the tubes with growing media rather than just the baskets. That will make a difference because you will need a screen to hold the growing media back if the tubes are filled with growing media. Again, not hard to deal with, it just makes a big difference in the design and function. |
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