When to move rockwool seedlings to dutch buckets

[Stan]

You’re using perlite correct? Did you give the perlite and complete drenching of fresh water before putting the plants in? Reason being fresh perlite is very dusty it needs to be flushed throughly. Most likely reaso for fluctuation with ph.

Put plants in full sun if only in the 70’s. 15 off 5 on is ok you can lower it down to 2 minutes on if you can but start with 5 minutes for now. It will take 9 - 14 days for you to see some growth as the plants need to adjust to new enviorement. They will skyrocket after that. That’s when you go to 3/4 nutrients.

[gdgdad]

Stan, 4 days since the move and plants appear OK (see pics). Applied another dose of Neem, seen white area but may have been the original one. Since the day I moved them we’ve had incredibly high winds, even in the garage I had to close the door ¾’s the way. Tonight and tomorrow exceptionally cold but garage will stay above 60F, and the reservoir has an aquarium heater. Adjusted timer (today) to 15m off – 2m on per your advice, I’ve also added a couple standard 4’ fluorescent bench lights to (hopefully) supplement the lack of sun light. Seems the PH is finally stabilizing, did not have to add as much PH down to get it back to 5.9. Question on epson salts – you mentioned a while back adding some, you have a recommended amount per gallon? Lastly, in a previous post you mentioned you had some tomato seeds from your plants that produced 3 lb. fruit. If they’re still available I’d like ask for some – if this goes well (and I’m optimistic) I want to start another bank of Dutch buckets in time for spring. Please let me know and thanks again for all your help!

[Stan]

PM me your mailing address I’ll send some down to you along some other tomato plants that did well with Dutch bucket grows.

As for epsom salt I only add a maybe 3 tablespoons once a month when I see tomatoes starting to form. Just make sure it’s pure epsom salt and not the type that has other things added to it like boutique epsom salt.

[gdgdad]

Stan, The plants seem to be growing (height wise) fast (see pics). One plant (2nd. From left) appears to be starting blooms (you may have to zoom in, but there appears to be three – Epson salt time?) However, today I noticed some discoloration on the leaves on the plant with blooms. Not every leaf, but more than one (again, see pics). On all four plants, the tips or edges of the cotyledons appear brown or dried out. Should cotyledons be cut off? Nutrient timer still running 15 min off, 3 min on, 7/24 (any suggestions on timing?). The aerator and heater run 7/24 as well, and PH seems stabilized @ 6.0 (checked every other day). I try to get the plants as many hours of sunshine as possible, but between recent cloudy days and exceptionally high winds, I doubt its more than 8 or 9 hours a day, but I do leave lighting on through the night or whenever the garage door is closed. Appreciate your “prognoses” of what I’m seeing, and any advice you have. Thanks, Gary

[Stan]

When tomatoes start to form clip the leaves going up to that level. I can’t tell from the pic are those the bottom leaves? If yes clip them off. If not could be 2 possible things.
1. plant might be getting stressed from being moved in and out of the garage.
2. Plants not getting enough water of which I don’t think is the case here. You’re not using a drip feed right?

Are you using General Hydroponics drops ph tester or a battery operated 1? I find the GH easier and more accurate to deal with. Also what type of fertilizer are you using now with the plants?

The pics of the soon to be tomatoes looks like a great healthy plant.

You don’t need the air stone running 24hrs a day it only need 2 hours at the most.

[gdgdad]

Stan, thanks for the quick response. I’ve provided a (hopefully) better pic and circled the “discolored” leaves that shows their position. On your comments / questions:
-The plants aren’t moved in and out, and actually have never been moved since being put in the Dutch buckets, BUT…. They’re only inches from the garage door (to get the most full sun) that I open in the morning, close in the evening.
-Watering: still set at 15min off/ 3 min on 24/7 (reduced from 5 min on). I use an “open” (i.e. nothing on the end of the hose) dual ¼” drip line per bucket. See the pic with the “hoop”, I cut the hoop at center and left ends open, pushed down ~ 2” into perlite. Per my measurement on the return line, I believe each bucket gets about 10 gph. (if running continuously). Increase time on?
-My PH tester is a battery operated ATC – iMeshbean PH tester (https://www.amazon.com/iMeshbean-Dig.../dp/B00LE3MZ7S). I also bought Atlas Scientific calibration liquids and check the tester ~ once a month and it’s dead on.
-Fertilizer: still using Miracle Grow® for tomatoes (@1/4 strength) – open to your recommendations – type and strength….
-On the air stone(s), I’ll turn them on manually in the morning for ~ 2hrs. until I grab another timer from good ‘ol Harbor Freight.

[Stan]

PH Tester - Ok I had 1 of those ph testers when I first started they were never very accurate and a PITA to adjust. I use General Hydroponics ph tester it's always accurate and easy to deal with and cheap 5 - 7 dollars that'll last for the year. The ph color in the pic is what you want.


Fertilizer - I tried once growing with Miracle Grow it works in the beginning stages but I never got it to grow to the end. Plants need more than what that fertilizer will give them. I've been using Verti-Gro for a long time now always had success with them. They have a sale going on now for the same fertilizer I've been buying from them.
http://www.vertigro.com/dealoftheday.asp
They have instructions on the package of how much to dilute in 1 gallon bottles You need strong 1 gallon containers not the flimsy milk containers. Both fertilizes need to be in separate containers. Instructions also include how much of the nutrients should be added to the reservoir of which I never went full strength with. Now my growing season is from May thru October growing 11 tomato plants of which I only used a total of 1/2 gallon of each solution.

Watering - I never used that ring does it drip out or flow out? If it drips out increase the time double it. I take my black tubing and push it down close to the stem of the tomato plant pics below. Those plants grew so fast they came over the top of the cages and grew down below the cages easily over 10ft tall. I also shot a very short video of my Black Cherry Tomato plants that was loaded with forming tomatoes. It was shot after an extreme heatwave that lasted about a week. You'll see my feed line running from PVC pipe into the perlite. The leaves aren't perfect but the tomatoes didn't suffer from the heatwave. I will remove the video in a couple days.

https://mega.nz/#!oWhXUaoT!lBC6rTlGu...bDXf5um3pMFtEc

[2Easy]

Thanks, my plants are looking good and healthy.

[gdgdad]

Stan, Plants are MASSIVE and super thick, they require thinning and trellising regularly (good problem to have). There are MANY tomatoes – some easily a pound or more, though very few turning red as yet. Problem: I’ve notice yellow spots and even “snake like” yellow trails on some leaves (see pics) so I sprayed plants with Neem today. The spots and lines look more like the pics on post 11/20/18, rather than the pics posted on 1/5/19 (nutrient deficiency). The bushes are so thick it’s difficult to spray with my “windex type” sprayer, so I’m picking up a small pump sprayer today. I’m still running nutrients at about 50%, and I add about 5 grams of Epsom Salt to the 55 gallon drum once a week – Question: is it time to back off on nutrients? You would not believe the nutrient mix they’re consuming – from 3/15 through 3/23 I’ve added 55 gallons to keep the barrel topped off!!! I’m keeping PH at about 6.5, reservoir temp varies between 69 and 70, and I add a frozen jug when it goes over 70. Appreciate your assessment of the yellow spotting and lines. Also – I’m battling Lubbers (https://www.tampabay.com/features/ho...hopper/1223224) - they’re small grass hoppers that eventually turn into Locust – the largest grasshopper in North America, and they’ll decimate a garden. They’re in their “larve” stage now and I seem to be keeping up with them. They cluster in groups and Spectricide is effective at this stage. I’ve not seen any on my plants as yet. I’ll keep you posted and thanks again. GDG

[Stan]

The trails on the leaves might be caused by slugs. They are not easy to see just really look around that area and pluck’em off. The spots I’m not sure what it could be. Possibly water that was on the leaf getting baked and burned by hot sun? I would clip those leaves off.

Yes it’s incredible how fast and full of fruit these get when growing this way and the amount of water they drink is unbelievable. You can start to gradually cutting back on nutrients. Start with the 50% you currently use per week and make it last 2 weeks with only that 1 dose. If plants look fine drop down to a 40% dose that will last for 2 weeks. Again if plants look fine just keep on reducing by 10% and have it last 2 weeks until you’ve gone to 10% or if you feel the plants have reached their limit just give water till the end.

[gdgdad]

Stan, the Neems® seemed to do the trick on what was ever ailing the leaves and the spotted leaves I removed. They seem healthy and WOW are they producing – I’ve attached many pics. I’ve already started handing out tomatoes to neighbors. I never imagined this outcome! I keep a log (spreadsheet) on adding water/nutrients, salts, PH levels and anything I do - and since putting in the 55 gallon reservoir on February 27th. The plants have gone through 260 gallons! I let them ripen until slightly soft and man are they juicy! (again see pics). I’m still running nutrients at about 50%, watering is every 20 minutes for 5 minutes (24/7). Temps here are starting stay high, with sunny clear days, so it’s been a challenge keeping water temp under 73 ° f. I’ll likely be adding water/nutrient tomorrow (typically 20 to 25 gallons) and I’m dropping nutrients to 40%. My neighbor is helping “train” the vines horizontal, and I’ve run so many trellis strings (and clips) to hold up weighty tomato groups that it looks like a puppet show. I’m not sure where the “limit” is – the top vines a still flowering. Gonna’ keep this going as long as I can! Wish I could share some tomatoes with you! I’ll keep you posted as we head into the really hot periods….

[Stan]

Your plants and tomatoes look beautiful!!! I told you, you would have so many tomatoes you would have to start giving them away. Each plant must weigh a lot with all the tomatoes growing all over. You did an amazing job with your first successful grow, congrats!!!

I wouldn’t worry so much with temp of the nutrient water. if you are able to keep it in low 70’s upper 60’s great. I’ve had my reservoir in the mid 80’s and tomatoes were still doing fine.


Make sure you save the seeds from some tomatoes. Scrape them out of 2-3 tomatoes into a window screen type colander, rinse them off with fresh water until you get that gel off of them. Let them sit and dry on a cutting board for a couple hours. Use a butter knife to get the seeds that are sticking to the board all piled up and place them in a paper envelop for a few months and they’ll be ready to be used for a future grow.


I already have a couple seedlings growing won’t be able to get them in the 5 gallon buckets till mid May when there’s no chance of frost at night. We’ve had crazy fluctuations in temps the past 2 weeks up here.