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#1
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Hey Stan, hope this post finds you doing well, I see it’s getting a little chilly out there so I doubt you’ve got much growing. I shut both Dutch buckets and rail systems down September 9th., tomatoes had quit producing and most of the rail plants died out. It was a very hot September and October pretty much the same. I “attempted” starting seeds about mid-September, and has been the case in previous seed starts, I could not get seeds to germinate. I assumed it was the age of the seeds and ordered fresh. I still had a very low yield, i.e. ~ 6 out of 15 rockwool cubes germinated. I use the humidity dome, heating pad (though probably not necessary), placed in indirect sunlight outside on Lanai and so on, but little luck. Anyway, in the Dutch buckets I stayed with perlite (I was able to re-coup/re-use about 80%). This time I’m doing only 3 tomato plants (see pics) – a cherry, a Big Boy and a Supersteak. The other 2 buckets will be green bell peppers and Brussel sprouts (waiting for seeds). On the rail system, I have 4 Bok-Choy plants going, but they’re not doing great – I think it’s still to hot. Not sure what to plant in the 20+ remaining “slots”. Maybe strawberries??? Lastly, I’ll be ordering nutrients from Verti-Gro (ran out this summer) and I’m using Miracle grow for now while they’re small. So – any suggestions / “sure fire” tips on getting higher yields on starting seeds in rockwool cubes? Thanks again for all your help.
GDGDAD |
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#2
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Strawberries would probably be best during your winter months as they thrive on cooler air temps along with cilantro or oregano and others similar.
If you are reusing perlite you should try to get all dead root matter out before planting new. If the plant before had problems the new plants might if root matter was left behind. If you are not getting any germination using the rockwool cubes then go to the old fashion reliable way. Take a paper towel wet it down place some seeds separated fold the wet paper towel over and place seeds in a somewhat warn dark place for 2 days. Make sure the paper towel doesn't get completely dry after the first day. If you feel its to dry just spray with fresh water so its damp. By the second day open the paper towel to check on the seeds see if any cracked open. You might have to wait another 2 days if they did not. If they still didn't open they are probably not good. If they crack open you gently pick them up and put them in the rockwool cubes. As for the rail system do you have it on an angle for the water to drain very slowly or is is draining fast? It should not drain fast reason being it would be like a river running down each rail pulling on the roots. This will stress the plants. The water should run out slowly so it doesn't pull that hard on the roots. Also the rails and PVC piping needs to be cleaned if the system was shut down for a week or more. If its constantly being used you could clean once a year. Last edited by Stan; 11-03-2020 at 04:53 PM. |
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#3
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Thanks for the advice Stan. I think I’ll go with strawberries for the rail system, some of the herbs and spices I grew became enormous, overwhelming other plants. On the perlite, I had it spread out on a sheet drying in the sun for over a month and when re-filling buckets I did remove roots and pine needles. I also “re-claimed” what hydroton there was.
On starting seeds, I’ve tried 2 different techniques, and in each instance I have pre-soaked the cubes in 6.0 ph water (no fertilizer) for 1 or 2 hours. On my 1st. try I placed 3 or 4 seeds ~ ¼” down and gently closed the hole. On 2nd. Attempt, I “dug out” a ¼” round hole, ¼” deep in the cube the placed some Vermiculite in the hole, inserted 3 or 4 seeds, then covered with vermiculite. In both instances I then place them in the humididome (sic?) – (see pics) and check them daily to insure they’re moist. Then I patiently wait the 10 to 14 days the seed pack says, but give up after about 15 days. I’ll try the paper towel method next. On the rail system, the rails are level and the drain tube is about 1/8” up inside the rail (see pic). There’s little or no standing water between spray intervals. The roots seem to have done really well, and they were massive when I pulled them out. I did completely clean out the rails and drains, removing end caps, snaking drainpipes and checking/testing sprayers. Lastly, the Pepper and Brussel Sprout seeds should be here Friday and I ordered the Verti-Gro FCombo pack today. Last question, do you think I could put more then 1 Brussel sprout plant in a single Dutch bucket seeing they’re getting all the nutrients/water at regular intervals? Thanks again, Gar |
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#4
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Usually my tomato seeds germinate within 2 days days at the most with cool temps. When in the 60's they germinate very fast. In the 70's don't use heating pad.
With other seeds with harder outer shells i will usually slightly scruff the outer shell with a fine piece of sandpaper. Again if no germination with the rockwool damp paper towel will do the trick. As for brussel sprouts I have never tried growing them so I would try 1 plant the fist time and judge by that if you could do more the next time. Yes those rails will be filled with roots after 1 grow it's incredible how much comes out. With rails its better to get the roots out as soon as possible otherwise the roots will stick to the sides and bottom. I use a power washer to clean then out it's so much faster. |
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#5
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Thanks for the tips and info Stan. I’m starting the Brussel Sprout and Green pepper seeds today in rockwool cubes. Per your advice, no heating pad. I’ve seen different theories on light vs no-light when rockwool cubes are first placed in a “humidome”. I’m going to try darkness via covering the humidome with a box. The minute I see a sprout, that cube’s off to the aeroponic cloner in the greenhouse – that quick move has worked every time for me.
We’ve decided to try (add) Strawberries in the aeroponic rail system, but I’m not sure where to start…. Looking for seeds was VERY confusing (and discouraging). You have any suggestions on seed type and sources? And did you start yours in rockwool cubes? I can’t find any information on that. We are into cooler nights and cooler days aren’t far off – should be an ideal time to start seeds. I’m seeing germination times of 7 days to 6 weeks (!?) – what was your experience? I’ve also read strawberries are perennials – not sure how that would work in my rail system - when would they be removed? Thanks again for any advice / direction GDGDAD |
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#6
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Don't start strawberries from seeds you will not get any strawberries the first year. You need to buy Strawberry bare root. Get everbearing they will produce all year but during your summer months you would have to move your rails indoors the heat will stop them from producing more until it cools. If you move them indoors you will continue to get more.
When growing from bare root grown strawberries eventually you will see a lot of runners take them without cutting them off and put them in a small dirt pot so they will form roots. Transplant into a bigger dirt pot. When they reach 1 year old you can grow them in the rail. Strawberry plants only last approx 5 years so these runners will constantly supply you with new plants. If you want to grow from seeds you get them from the strawberries you eat. Follow these directions to see how you extract and trick the seeds into into germinating faster than they would. https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Strawber...idual%20seeds. Last edited by Stan; 11-06-2020 at 05:02 PM. |
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#7
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Thanks so much, everywhere I looked was pushing “bare root” plants, so that explains that. A couple of probably dumb sounding questions but…. I’ve never bought bare root plants - would I be putting the bare root plants in a rockwool cube similar to how I place a tomato sucker? And I’m not certain about the “….taking runners but without cutting them off….”, could you explain that? I understand putting them in small dirt pots (best medium?).
Moving rails inside would not be an option, but keeping “runners” (clones?) inside the house in pots would be doable. The question would be transplanting from potted plant into rail system. Rinse roots and place in rockwool similar to tomato cloning? (by the way I had incredible success cloning!). I’ve never done that but I’ve heard of people doing that for plants they buy at a nursery (though it’s considered a bad practice in the Hydroponics circles I’ve researched). Lastly, as I was writing this my Vert-Gro Nutrients came so I’ll be draining (but saving) my Dutch Bucket reservoir and going with ~ 50% strength. The “re-claimed” nutrient is the Miracle Grow mix, I’ll use it in the “super cloner” (which has four 4” high beefsteak seedlings). Again, I sincerely appreciate all the help, knowledge and advice you’ve provided. Between you and my Jamaican farmer neighbor, I would never have had all the success I’ve had. Thanks again! gdgdad |
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