![]() |
Home | Store | Blog | Forums | FAQs | Lesson Plans | Pictures |
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan, Thanks for the quick response. The wife and I already got both our Covid shots, the Pfizer version (the one we could get the soonest). We have a lot of family visiting from cold snowy Michigan between now and end of May, (five of them college students!) and we wanted to be as ready as possible.
On the lettuce, we have one more night possibly going to 39, I’ll cover green house and heat. Weathers been VERY strange, mid 80’s for days then 1 day out of the blue in the 30’s overnight, and then back to 80’s. Even our weather guy says he’s never seen anything like it. We’re in the 80’s while Michigan is in low teens – largest temperature difference I’ve ever seen since I’ve lived in Florida - crazy! I’m going to start looking for strawberry plants locally (Lowes, Home Depot) but I doubt they’re available yet. Do you know of an on-line source for strawberry plants starting to bear fruit? I know they’ll kill me on shipping but it’d be worth it to get started. On the runners, you mention “small pots” with soil. Can you suggest an ideal pot size and soil type (I.E. Vermiculite? Potting soil?). I can easily fabricate a shelf for the pots to sit on under the rail(s). Thanks, Gary PS – Threw in a few more pics; Brussels sprouts, Green Pepper and the greenhouse |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Any small size pot like the size of a small net pot with any type "moist" soil. You are only going to use them to start rooting in soil. Once they have roots you can either transfer them to the hydroponic rail or to a larger pot with soil that can hold them for a year or more. The large size all depends on how many runners take root. I've had like 10 plants in a pot you would use for Elephant Ears and they produced lots of strawberries without ever having to do anything but water them every other day during the summer months.
As for lettuce they will grow in very cold climate as long as they are being grown in a greenhouse. Here's 2 different lettuce plants I have been growing outdoors this winter in old 5 gallon buckets made into an earth box. I use the same cattle fencing I use to make tomato cages and cover it using clear plastic. We've had mostly 30 - 40 degree temps but have had a few in the lower 20's and the plants are doing fine. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks Stan! I’ll be running to the local Wal Mart today, their web site says they have Strawberry plants in stock (from Bonnie plants), so I’ll probably pick up about 5 and some small net pots. I moved the remaining lettuce plants to the rail system (see pics).
Question on the lettuce – I’ve read a lot about having to shade them from sun, did you do that? Lastly, you can see I have 2 beefsteaks starting to ripen (finally). I also have a good number of clones underway. I keep clones going just in case I lose a plant and / or a plant is done. They usually get way to big for the cloner and I end up giving them away. I’ll keep you posted on how the “Strawberry project” goes.. Gar |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
With lettuce I'm not sure if you might have lettuce that can grow in the type of heat you get down in your area. With lettuce I have grown (green leaf and red leaf)as long as high temperature during the day is around 80 degrees they will thrive in full day sun. In temps 85+ degrees they grow slowly until they start flowering even in the shade. They need cooler temps to grow so you might want to get prepared down the line to move them into the house. They will do just fine either by a window or by using florescent grow lights. If you are going to keep them outdoors in a shaded area during the summer try to get as many seedlings started now so they are at least 2-4 inches tall when the heat arrives. You should have lettuce all summer.
Your plants are looking really good! The lettuce will be shooting up and spreading out pretty fast. The tomatoes are looking great! With your clones if you want to slow down the growth process cutting the roots down short will do the trick. If you want to slow them down for a month cut the roots almost up to net pots. If you want to slow them down about 2 weeks cut 1/2 the full length. You should only test this on 1 plant as your tomato plants and climate is different than mine so you might end up with different results. |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi Stan, hope all’s going well. I FINALLY found a nursery with blooming strawberry plants though I had to drive halfway across Florida to get them. The nursery wasn’t sure if they were everblooming, but I had no other alternative(s), and they only had a few left. Anyway, I bought 5 - 1 gal plants, 3 with strawberries. I was really worried how I’d get these into my 2” net cups. Thought for sure I’d have to order larger net cups and enlarge the rail holes. I did the root rinse (they had a LOT of bark filler) and had to cut out the bottom of the net cups. Roots and stem fit “snuggly” into the tapered cups, then I placed (packed?) hydroton around them. I don’t believe I lost any roots (there were some thick, long ones!), and they seem to be doing OK (see the steps I took in the pics). They were put into the rail system March 3rd. How long would it take for them to adjust?
I’ll put a second post updating progress on the tomatoes, peppers, Brussels sprouts and lettuce. |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
It should take only a week for the strawberry plants to get used to the new environment. You might lose the strawberries currently on the plant but they will produce a ton of strawberries in that system.
If you end up buying more strawberry plants you don't have to cut the bottom of those net pots off. Those net pots have large openings on the bottom. All you need is a 1 foot piece of 50lb test monofilament fishing line. Use it to pull a small amount of roots at a time. When you get a decent amount you can pull them from the bottom. Strawberry plant roots are very strong. |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hey Stan, hope all’s well up there. Thought I’d give an update, the tomatoes are doing fantastic! Weather’s been hot and sunny with cool nights, and they’re consuming nutrients at about 33 to 38 gallons a week right now! 319 Gallons since I first put the tomatoes in the Dutch buckets on November 3rd.
The strawberries don’t seem to have changed or grown much, but they’re not drooping or yellowing or browning-out so I assume they’re still ok. They just don’t look as lush and healthy as the pic on your 11/6/20 post. But I might be expecting too much too soon. I’ve had an issue with my clones turning yellow, still growing, lots of roots, but yellowing leaves. I did some research and it says either not enough nuets or to much light. It is obviously the latter. I made a cover ( 3 sides and top) from landscape cloth and 2X2” fencing to shade them (see pics), we’ll see how that does. I’ve already given away more than ½ dozen clones and everyone says they’re doing great. Lastly, I invested in a PPM meter and I test the reservoir after adding nuets and balancing PH (at 6.0). I’m running right at the 700 PPM level, which from what I read is near what you want. Your thoughts? Thanks, Gar |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|