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#41
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Well I Did nutrient Change Today And Retested Water PH 4 different times
Conclusion; Water Ph Was Too low...Yellow Indicator - Tells Me Too Low (I Know I Need Something The Way Of Blue labs PH Test Meter) (I Know I Need Something The Way Of Blue labs TDS Test Meter) But A Decent Test Meter Cost$$$ And I 'am On A Budget.. So I Use This I'm Using API Fresh Water PH Test Kit (with Color Chart) For Now I Buy Purified Water R.O The Best I Know I Will Get Water Service Next Month The Sell R.O By The 5 Gallon Jug ------------------------------------------------------------ Water Temp 20.4 Celsius = 68.72 Fahrenheit PH Level Test no1...Fresh Water Only No nutrients 6.6 ------------------------------------------------------------ PH Level Test no2...with Nutrients added (PH 6.0) Took Sample from Near Top bucket PH Level Test no3...with Nutrients added (PH 6.0) Took Sample from deep in bucket still same -------------------------------------------------------------- Final Test PH Level Test no4...with Nutrients added (PH 6.4) -------------------------------------------------------------- All In All I Need To Recheck & Recheck & Recheck & Check Everyday I Think most likely This Was My problem; Because Roots Look Nice & White & Getting longer And More |
#42
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005...sr=8-1&pi=SL75
^^^^ cheap ph pen I might be wrong here but i think you waters gonna be to warm? Idk I had a pathogen problem at 20-21° c so i had to buy a water chiller and was told i could go down to 16°....idk maybe someone will explain . I think its got to do with dissolvable oxygen in the water works best at a certain temp ?? Idk......im only going by what problem i had? You may want to google your water temp. |
#43
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#44
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GENERAL HYDROPONICS: Questions About Water I Believe That I am within That range with 10 degree's to spare lol See Its Winter time here where I am at Cleveland ohio temps getting to about 60 degree's During daytime Also just in case what's a decent low cost chiller? all ones I seen cost a ton of money |
#45
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You might need one for the summer, mine was $300 helia hx 110a ( i think ? ).
Its a little bit more complex than you think hydroponics isn't it....im just starting to get to grips with the bennies.lol. Going back to the first posts of this thread about cfl's and hps......are you thinking differently because iv got the hps and mh ( metal halide ) on my ' to by list '.?? You ?? |
#46
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Hello Bigdaddy216,
First I would like to mention I have been extremely busy today, but I promise I will send you both those articles as soon As I can catch a breath. I wouldn't have even chimed in today except that I thought it was important to tell you a couple things. First, As I mentioned earlier in this thread there is no need to spend money on a electronic pH pen. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket, that's fine get one. I don't care if it's a cheep one, or the best on the market, they all have the same type of problems. The only reliable method to test pH is with pH drops. However the pH drops your using are the wrong type. They are not capable of the right pH range. The lowest it goes is 6.0, and You need a pH range between 4 and 8. Six point zero is perfect for most plants, but the pH can be 4.0 (not good for any plants) and those test drops wont be able to tell you because it cant go that low. This is what I always use, and is all you need (pH Test Kit). You can get it at any hydroponics shop for under $10, and doesn't need to be calibrated, need to be adjusted for water temp, will never give you false readings, and last you a year or more even with regular use. By the way pH for cucumbers is around 5.8 and 6.0. So 6.0 is perfect for them, but it may have been much lower and you would never know it using those drops. 6.5 to 7 is actually to high for cucumbers. Yes Like I mentioned your water temp is just fine between 65 and 70F. Optimum water temp is between 68 and 72, but a few degrees either way is no problem. However once it gets up much past 80 you'll begin to have problems. Some plants tolerate heat stress better than others, so with cool weather plants like lettuce you should try to not let it get higher than 75 or so. |
#47
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Hows the hydroponics going bigdaddy ?
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#48
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well so far so good I think .... as I did a nutrient change out what 2 days ago I found out my ph levels was way off.. so I rechecked it after i mixed nutrients .. but as I was changing out I noticed how sickly one plant was looking compared to the other cuke plant so what m gut told me was to yank it so it wouldn't infect good plant so now I only have 1 cuke plant in 10in netpot in 3.5 gallon bucket instead of 2 ..tent humidity and temp been running pretty constant I think maybe I had a bad seed ... all in all things look pretty good I pot picture update about Tuesday or wed
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#49
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Cuke Update
Hey Tommy Here and Update.. Sorry to say I had to yank one of the plants it just didn't look az good az this one do . I Figure It May Have Been Diseased bad seed I guess but here look at root mass and plant itself
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#50
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#51
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lets see for one ,, yellowing was progressing no2 plant was green but kinda crinkly no3. leaves started drooping or folding in as it drooped... my thought was infected seed or maybe I didn't catch ph level in time ,,
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#52
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I don't know if it's the lighting or not, but it looks a little on the yellow side. It may just be recovering, or still have a problem. Did you get the right kind of pH drops yet? Now that the seedlings are getting bigger, I would probably up the nutrients to about 2/3 to 3/4 strength. They should start growing quickly if their getting enough light.
Also, I was looking for new articles today when I came across these three that I think you may find useful. Control Yourself: Understanding the Basics of Indoor Climate Control What’s the Problem? Hydroponic Troubleshooting Cultivating Cucumbers P.S. Bigdaddy216, did you get the e-mail I sent you. If not, I can re-send it.. |
#53
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#54
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Nutrient lockout is not due to the brand of nutrients you use. Nutrient lockout is due to two things,
1. improper pH, 2. mixing them incorrectly. And by that I mean combining parts together (A and B etc..) at to high of a concentrations. If you mix them in the full volume of water you intend to use, that will never happen. HOW ARE YOU TESTING YOUR pH now??? If you choose to use the same pH drops you were using, you will never be able to get your pH correct. I'm just trying to save you time, money, effort, and frustration. But I'm wasting my time if I don't know the basics....... |
#55
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PH Up Liquid Adjusting Solution Quart $6.90 PH Down Liquid Adjusting Solution Quart $6.90 General Hydroponics FloraGro Quart $7.90 General Hydroponics FloraBloom Quart $7.90 General Hydroponics FloraMicro Quart $9.90 General Hydroponics - CALiMAGic Quart $9.90 T5 Ho 8 tube Fixture 40,000 lumen For Me I'm Doing Good Learning process For Me |
#56
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OK,
That's a really good price on the general hydroponics pH testing kit. Usually they run $6.95 to $8.95. You do need some pH adjusters. I assumed you already had some otherwise how are you trying to adjust them? If you already have some I'm not sure why you would spend more money when you don't need to. Also I don't think you have a problem with the brand of nutrients you are using. But if you have the extra money to spend, and want to buy the flora series nutrients, go for it. their good nutrients (just expensive). If so don't bother much with their mixing chart. For full strength nutrient solution, use equal amounts 10 ml per gallon of each part for continuously fruiting plants like cucumbers. I have used the flora series a lot myself in the past. But if you don't have extra money to spend don't bother. If you really need help with the math of what you already have, I will help you with it so you don't need to spend money you don't need to. You also simply don't need to spend money on any cal mag product. It is good in some circumstances, but not in your case. Especially if you don't have money to waste. You can add all the cal mag you want, but the plants will never be able to take it up if the pH is incorrect, and just adding more wont make them use more. They only take what they need, and any balanced nutrient solution will already have plenty in it. You can test the pH all you want, but if you don't use the right drops you still don't know what your pH is. I've been trying to get that across to you, but you keep avoiding it. Even telling me your pH is between 5.5 and 5.8, and I know that's not true because you cant be that accurate with drops (even GH drops), and the drops you do have don't even go below 6.0. So unless you bought or borrowed a pH meter you couldn't even come close to telling that range correctly. If you did barrow one, Then I would ask how you know it's calibrated correctly, and functioning correctly. The only thing you need right now is to get the pH drops so you can actualy tell what the pH is. Bottom line, if I were you I wouldn't waste money on anything on your list right now except the pH drops (and I guess the T'5 if you want to try using them). Once you get the pH drops and test your nutrient solution with it, we can see where you are at that point. Tell then there is nothing to do but wait for the right information. P. S. Yes your doing fine learning, just keep in mind I just can't help you if I don't have accurate information to work from. Last edited by GpsFrontier; 10-30-2014 at 09:11 AM. |
#57
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[QUOTE=GpsFrontier;12178]OK,
That's a really good price on the general hydroponics pH testing kit. Usually they run $6.95 to $8.95. You do need some pH adjusters. I assumed you already had some otherwise how are you trying to adjust them? If you already have some I'm not sure why you would spend more money when you don't need to. Also I don't think you have a problem with the brand of nutrients you are using. But if you have the extra money to spend, and want to buy the flora series nutrients, go for it. their good nutrients (just expensive). If so don't bother much with their mixing chart. For full strength nutrient solution, use equal amounts 10 ml per gallon of each part for continuously fruiting plants like cucumbers. I have used the flora series a lot myself in the past. But if you don't have extra money to spend don't bother. If you really need help with the math of what you already have, I will help you with it so you don't need to spend money you don't need to. A. (((For full strength nutrient solution, use equal amounts 10 ml per gallon of each part for continuously fruiting plants like cucumbers.))) B. Now for example; seedling like I have in pictures I posted, what (ml) Should I Cut That To and How Long To Feed For Till Full strength? C. Do I Need To Measure Out; 10ml Of Bloom, 10ml, Of Gro, 10ml of Micro? Or Do You Mean 10ml Total? PH Level Basically You Telling Me To Have 2 (Different Ways) To Check PH Level [/COLOR][/B]Instead Of Just Using Drops & Don’t Trust A PH Pen Because Calibration Could Be Off Right? Also You Said Just Buy More PH Up & PH Down Because Yes I Have Some PH Up & PH Down That Came With That API Fresh Water Kit PH Kit I Have ….. Far As Water Goes I Have Been Using Purified Water – But As Of 3rd November I Have Bottle Water Service They Sell Reverse Osmosis Water In Five Gallons TDS Should I Buy A TDS Meter? Would That Help? Is This Good Brand ? I Know You Get What You Pay For Hanna 1382 PPM TDS Calibration Solution 20ml Sachets $1.09 Hanna Primo TDS Test Meter $27.90 How I Been Feeding So You Understand This Exactly What It Says On Site In Mix Recommendations Product Information TOMATO FERTILIZER 4-18-38 A special fertilizer mix used for growing tomatoes, peppers and other vegetable crops. Can be used in the greenhouse or in the field. Water soluble. Works great in drip irrigation systems. Not a foliar feed fertilizer. Designed to be used with Calcium nitrate. 25# bag also available in 1# and 5# The recommended mix per 5 gallons is: 12 grams Master Blend, 12 grams Calcium Nitrate, 6 grams Magnesium sulfate. Now If I Pour 2.5 Gallons Of That out Of 5 Gallons Into My 3.5 Gallon Bucket Will That Still Be Too Much? How I Been Cutting Back 12g + 12g + 6g = 30g So Whats Half Of ( 30g ) = 15g (That How I Been Feeding ) Here Site Link Also https://www.morgancountyseeds.com/st...&productId=487 Last edited by Bigdaddy216; 10-30-2014 at 10:36 AM. |
#58
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However now that you are telling me that the pH adjusters you have came with the pH kit you were using (not the general hydroponics pH kit), I would suggest you toss what you have out as well (because I'm sure their not designed for hydroponics either), and get the general hydroponics liquid adjustors on your list to get. You don't want to use any pH adjustors that are not designed for hydroponics. I should also mention that the general hydroponics dry pH adjusters are a much better deal in the long run. They are a few dollars more for the one pound containers (about $10-$12 depending on where you get them), but last much much longer. However if money is tight, just get the cheaper liquid ones, they should last you 2-4 months anyway. Quote:
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Typically Hanna is a good a good manufacture. They make testing equipment in all price ranges, and anything half way reliable will cost at least $100 or more. Even at that just like pH pens, TDS/EC meters can easily give you false readings. But that's not why I have one, the main reason (besides price) is even if it is working well, it simply cant tell me what I want to know. I don't need to know the general strength of my nutrient solution because I know how I mixed them, and change them regularly so they are balanced. When they make one that can tell me how much of each individual element is in the solution, that's when I'll buy one. The ones available can only give you a total of everything in the water, but not what quantities that each are in. So you can easily have one or two elements depleted, and some at toxic levels, and even when the meter is working properly the number on the TDS/EC meter can read in a good range, but the balance of the nutrients can still be way off and you would never know it. Quote:
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#59
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That Picture Is How I Mix Nutrient Big Bag Is 4-18-38 5lbs. $12.50 & Calcium Nitrate Was $4.00 & Magnesium (Epsom Salt) $2.00. Scale Was $14.00 About Me I Have Fixed Imcome & Disabled & I Didn’t Finish Highschool, I Have Vertigo & Basically Blind In One Eye; I Live In A Apartment Where I Have No Place To Garden Otherwise Id Do It Outdoor’s…. I Appreciate Everything Your Not Wasting Your Time With Me ..I Understand This Not Go Be Easy Heck Nothings Easy;; I Am Not Offended Not At All;; Because That’s What I Want Is The Honest Truth.. 1. When I Said I Had Some Ph up & Ph Down (Well It Wont Last) Because Bottles Are size of Pill Bottles Lol ..That’s Why I I Said I Just Buy General Hyponic’s PH Kits & Ph up & Ph Down To Last Me Good While Vs That Stuff I Have You Said That’s Not Made For Hydroponics (Will Buy New PH Kit Made For Hydroponic’s) 2. Ok I Will Scrap Buying A PH & TDS Test Pen (Wont Buy One) 3. Well Far As Water Goes Water Service Is As Follows $7.00 Per Five Gallons So If I Buy 3 For The Month That Be $21.00 They Do Have (First Time) Bottle Deposit But You Get That Back When You Quit Them 4.Far As The 4-18-38 Fertilzer I Have Well That’s For Commerial Growers And Made So You Have To Add Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium Sulfate; See I Been Using A Digital Scale To Measure That Out In Grams So That’s How I Was Using The MasterBlend Compared To Where Flora Series You Don’t Need to Add Any Thing .. all You Do Is Measure And Add To Your Water So I Fiugred Flora Series Be Better For Me After All Your Not Going To Use The Entire Bottle In One Month On One Or Two Plants (That Was My Thinking) Lol |
#60
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4. How are these plants being watered, and what is the water level in the buckets?
6. Is the top of the growing media moist or dry? 8. Are the plants getting good air circulation? @ GpsFrontier; Say I Was Scrolling Back Threw Posts From Your advise here to me Well no1. Bucket water level now I know in the beginning it have to be just under netpot this I know, but do I need to reduce that water level at some point? Also when u asked if top of my grow media was wet or dry so do that makes difference? Because tops of my clay pebbles was always dry cause when I changed out nutes I just transferred plant into 2nd bucket Now Last Question; Air Circulation as I stated my fan was always on never off, so did I mess up by not having another fan pulling on other end? |
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