Tomato diagnosis

[Soggy]

Guys, is this the infamous tomato mosaic virus or just some bug infestation side-effect or a nute problem?




im using general hydro's dry mix and the results before the infestation was really good.

The plants are overrun with mostly mealy bugs which i really cant seem to control with organic means (pepper + onion + garlic juice spray, alcohol swab, oil + soap)

Also, I planted some of the same tomatoes nearby on the soil and they are doing better than my hydro grown ones in terms of bug resistance. Is it silicates thats making soil grown plants better resistant?

[Soggy]

awww. 240+ views and no replies.

Lemme shift my question to the varieties that are resistant. Assuming it is the tomato mosaic virus, how will the resistant varieties fare? Will they be completely unaffected or the effects are less noticable and damaging?

[Luches]

Hi Soggy,

I do not suspect TMV but rather a nutrient deficiency or uptake problem.

The problem with deficiency diagnosis is that there may be multiple (even light) deficiencies that interact with each other. One has to compare symptoms on younger and older leaves, if there is intervenal chlorosis or only venal clorosis or a combination. Very detailed pictures (showing these aspects) are needed to be interpreted by the book, and to do a matching diagnosis.

Originally Posted by Soggy

im using general hydro's dry mix and the results before the infestation was really good.

Is it FLORAMATO DRY™ what you are using? Unfortunately they do not give any specification of this product, and I am used to analyse nutrient formulas with their actual PPM content in macro- and micro nutrient. That's how you can guess what may be lacking (in case).

Mostly, dry mixes lack calcium, because calcium nitrate is not compatible in dry- or liquid mono-mixes. If you have soft tap water with enough calcium this might not be a major problem. If on the other hand, you unluckily have got hard and nearly calcium-free water, a dry nutrient without Ca is not appropriate for Tomatoes. Enough Magnesium and Sulfur should also be part of any decent tomato formula.

Originally Posted by Soggy

The plants are overrun with mostly mealy bugs which i really cant seem to control with organic means (pepper + onion + garlic juice spray, alcohol swab, oil + soap)

You can simply (in combination with the spray) get rid of them by brushing them off with a soft 1 Inch painting brush, holding a paper sheet with the other hand to collect them. Get rid of them as they weaken your plants gradually and may be carrier of other pathogens as well!

Check the Ca content of your product, the Mg as well and even Iron content. The light colored leave-veins could also point to a lack of potassium. Some necrotic (black or dark brown) spots or leaves or stems may also come from a K (uptake) problem.

What about PH and nutrient temperatures, - and what about climate and actual air temperatures, sun exposure (partial scorch)?

Check this please: Action Mode, Deficiency & Toxicity of the 17 Essential nutrients

[Soggy]

Originally Posted by Luches

Is it FLORAMATO DRY™ what you are using? Unfortunately they do not give any specification of this product, and I am used to analyse nutrient formulas with their actual PPM content in macro- and micro nutrient. That's how you can guess what may be lacking (in case).

No, its the two part dry nute called maxi grow and bloom.

Originally Posted by Luches

What about PH and nutrient temperatures, - and what about climate and actual air temperatures, sun exposure (partial scorch)?

Nute pH is about 6.5 but im using an aquarium pH kit so its about 6.5ish . Climate is tropical (im in the philippines) about 26-33C (79-91F)
Full sun exposure from 7am to about 2 pm which i think is quite well tolerated with very little wilting during really hot days.

I was convinced that it was a nute problem but the same symptoms are now happening to the soil grown ones. I have since destroyed the hydro grown ones and am still observing the soil grown tomatoes if the plant can still recover.

Im currently growing park's razzleberry and really hoping they wont meet the same fate.

[Luches]

I have recently had similar problems and issues with my tomato plants, - and I have the same climate as you have (Northern Thailand). Monsoon season was very hot this year due to lack of rainfalls and I suspect the high temperatures (too much sun exposure also) to be the major issue here. Especially too high night temperatures. My plants did actually recover during longer rain periods (lower temperatures), lately. I'd recommend a few hours (best is early morning) of direct sunlight only. Best would even be to limit main tomato culture during the coolest season (nov-feb) here, I guess. Or perhaps look out for more heat resistant cultivars. I have a tasty semi-wild variety (local) that copes pretty well with the heat.

Cheers,

Luches

[Soggy]

Well, the razzleberry is really stunted, blossom drops and all. Its the same for soil and hydro grown ones. I guess its really the heat (which has been really intense even up to now).

Sigh, i guess ill have to look for heat tolerant varieties and be content with cardboard tasting grocery tomatoes

[Luches]

Hi again Soggy,

I had to eliminate most of my tomato plants as well a couple of weeks ago.
Yes, the heat and perhaps some wilt brought by white flies. And I now also have spotted some white flies on your previous pics. Be careful with those, they are carrier of many nasty deceases! Watch leaves daily and take measures, quicker than a.s.a.p.

I've got a wild species (native from Northern Thailand) that is very resistant for heat and against all the nasty stuff as well.

If you are interested, write me a PM with your address and I'll send you some seeds over.

cheers Luches