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#1
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Over fertilization?
I Have been reading the posts and I am a little confused, I have read that the plants will only take up the nutrients they need and leave the rest, on the other hand I have read that browning of the leaves and edges of the leaves can be caused by over fertilization. I don't understand how you can over fertilize if the plants wont absorb more than they need.
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#2
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It not over feet that's the issue
I am assuming this question stems from your other post in which you cite that you accidentialy doubled a concentration. The plant will only draw from available nutrients what it needs so, technically, you can't over fert. Howver, in large, or specific enough concentrations, the nutrients can cause damage to the plant on the celluar level, inhibiting or even destroying it's ability to photosyntheize or preform mitosis. So you can't "over fert" but you can have a nutrient solution that's too "hot", or in which a large concentration of a particular element is having an unwanted chemical reaction binding/or restricting another element or , as aformentioned, interfering with biological a biological process. also excessive nutrient can cause ppm/TDs to increase to a level that causes nutrient lockout, ie brown leaves, etc, etc. Matt- hydroponica.blogspot.com
Last edited by Mathmattx; 03-12-2009 at 05:05 PM. |
#3
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#4
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Measurements
Do you have a pH and/or tds meters? Those will help optimize plant nutrition and help avoid any losses that could otherwise be avoided. If you don't have them and are looking I have some great and very affordable recomendations. For most just the peace of mind of knowing the "exacts" are worth it. Can't tell you how many people I've seen agonize for hours trying to decipher colors on litmus paper or in ph vials, or wonder about nutrient concentrations.
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#5
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#6
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Potential Hydrogen Testing
Science and Medicine have used litmus and chem pH tests for decades with excellent and reliable results. Just takes some patience and training (both of which it seems you have), so that is excellent. As I was reading your posts, etc, the only other issue you may want to get out ahead of is Transpiration and evaporation. You said you live in a very arid climate, is your hydro setup out of doors? Your plants might be prone to excesive transpiration that would certainly require TDS monitoring so you can balance evaporated/transpired H20. I would lastly recomend keping a "log" of all that you do. It will help you learn how adding chemicals, time, temp, etc affect your setup. The idea bening it will get infinitly easier and cheaper as you learn what works, how your plant resond to your water, nutrient, etc, etc. The best log I have found (because i wrote it) can be found at Hydroponica.blogspot.com. Its easy to copy and paste the jpeg or as I say I can e-mail it. Matt- hydroponica.blogspot.com
Last edited by Mathmattx; 03-12-2009 at 05:04 PM. |
#7
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#8
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Great Strategies
Great Strategies! Ideally nutrient should be kept between 68-75. Obviously it CAN be kept a little cooler and much warmer than this. You may want to introduce a cooling loop into your system...I took the liberty of sketching one up real quick to give you an idea of one (pardon the crudeness, it was a quickie). It would be built onto your existing system and would only need some more pipe and 2-shutoffs to direct/redirect flow. Obviously you can loop the pipe underground, double back (with some seperation, etc). Only possible consideration from current system is if your pump can handle the increased pressure demand? If you cant dig, can also run this under the crawl space in your house (not most ideal for many reasons, but if you live on rock...it works" Best of Luck Matt-hydroponica.blogspot.com
At anyrate I hope you dont get dioscouraged/feel overwhelmed...this stuff is supposed to be fun and interesting Last edited by Mathmattx; 03-12-2009 at 06:59 PM. |
#9
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Last edited by GpsFrontier; 05-09-2010 at 05:23 AM. |
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